dresses

Archipelago

I came upon these notes I wrote 13 years ago and also the photos that accompany them which popped up as a memory on Facebook. It turns out that I also met the artist, Jerelyn Hanrahan, who created the Pearl sculpture through Facebook quite a few years after taking these pictures.

Alaina Ferris modeling in front of Jereyln Hanrahan’s pearl sculpture

Archipelago

Black silk with large ecru polka- dots. Saw fabric in Dec and kept swatch; romancing it, lusting after it- afraid of it. Polka-dots- such a polarizing statement. very loaded iconography. Spanish roots? Society women wouldn’t be caught dead in a large polka-dot dress. Gilles from Paris (James Lord’s companion and adopted son) declaring them to be gauche- only hookers would wear them. An irredeemably clownish aspect- Flamenco flamboyance, so seductive and dangerous, yet verging on the silly and laughable. July 6- could not resist. Having sketched a design for Paris trunk show- bought 3 yards. Fantasized about buying 6 more perhaps. . .to have enough. Immediately deçu! Not right- too regular, vulgar- no one would be caught dead in it! Left the roll of fabric sitting in a corner for 2 days- glancing at it, only unfurling it once part way to ascertain the hand of it. doubts about skirt- needs to be on the bias, broken up a bit- given more life. July 8 - Unfurl it. Quickly decide to cut off one length - 44”, not realizng I am making a square. cut the 2nd 44” and have 12”left over. Good. Begin draping a skirt. Not on bias, but with a sarong-like fold in front. Move it to the bust on dress form. Loving it! loving the way the folds fall over the bust- tuck the excess over and sew into place before I don’t lose it. Impossible to replicate! Begin in back- try the same thing- pin - try on - lose pins - pin on straps - keep losing it. Decide to take in fullness in top back. Yes! It is working. . . try on many times - pinning, re-pinning, testing. It works! Fabric feels luscious- Billows, moves like a sail with a breeze.

Dressing Up for the New Year

It’s been a harrowing and unsettling time for many and the future feels uncertain. It is good to connect in person and perhaps indulge in some sartorial fun. My winter sale was the setting for much good cheer and an oasis from the outside world.

Artists Mary Jones in Silk Satin stripe organza dress and Jill Levine in Silk cheongsan dress with flower embellishment.

Caroline wearing silk velvet “Confetti Dress” from 1995 show with Mary Heilmann “Crimson and Clover”

Laurie Eustis Taffetta Coral dress

Joelle Reilly in Wax print skirt with silk paint splatter sash

Mary Jones shopping the rack

Joanne Gair in Fallen Tree dress

The Twi proverb written on this dress says ‘Dua Kur Gye Enum A Obu” which means “A Tree Alone Cannot stand the Wind”

Wishing everyone a Healthy Peacfull and love-filled New Year❣️

Working with clients

I have had the pleasure to work with some wonderful people. It is, at it’s best, a collaboration between designer and client. The more I get to know the client, the more fruitful the relationship becomes. I like to make clothes that are not so trendy that they go out of style in a season. Classics that are well made and well designed can last for years! These were all made recently for one client.

wool plaid dress with self fringe and generous pockets - made for client

cotton flannel Pajamas with novelty wool trim - snap front closure and optional belt - for client

doubleface wool jacket with gold zips and subtle windowpane plaid pants - for client

wool plaid jacket with plaid buttons, wool voile shirt, and wool pants

Japanese cotton jacket with silk lining, self frogs and patterned buttons over Aboriginal cotton dress

frog and button detail - Japanese cotton jacket

Cotton Matelassé dress

Wool coat over linen dress

detail - linen curve dress and wool coat

Linen curve dress withe kantha cloth piping - coordinates with Kantha coat

Dressing for pleasure

Say goodbye to summer and it’s indolent airs , but not to the concept of dressing for pleasure. Dites Bonjour to mixing and layering prints, textures, colors or whatever you like- make dressing an adventure.

Orange Lampas Brocade coat over cotton print dress

The coat is lined in silk charmeuse and has antique filigree buttons collected in Southern Germany concealing hook and eye closures that fasten the coat - shown here also before buttons were added - coat sz 12 - $750. Dress sz 14 - $375.

A cotton wax-print frock coat can be layered over pants or dresses - to stylish effect - Letters and numbers Ankara print is a traditional African pattern - lined in rayon bemberg - sz 6-8 - $650.

Nothing says VIP better than a dress that actually says vip . . Cotton wax print button front dress with semi-belt tie. sz 6-8 - $550.

We got out of the city for the first time since the Pandemic- Had a lovely weekend visit with old friends at the beach.

Back in the studio. . . .

A full cotton print skirt with a belt and dark top has been my wardrobe choice for bicycling along the Hudson River to and from my studio feeling free as a bird!

Continue to stay safe everyone and dress for pleasure! ❤️

Almost Summer

It was a busy and productive couple of months. I always love this time of year and especially this year, with covid numbers declining and some activity returning. I was encouraged that people bought lots of dresses at my Spring Sale, which indicates that they see a future in dressing up and going out again.

Sophie in Peacock blue silk draped gown                 photo: Liz Hafter

Sophie in Peacock blue silk draped gown photo: Liz Hafter

I made this dress in 2005 originally as a costume for Trisha Brown to wear in a duet in Lyon, France. We decided on something simpler and I then sold it to a dear client. Some years later this client recommended me to Sophie and her Mom, one of her best friends, to design a Bat mitzvah dress. Now- Sophie is graduating from high school and the friend leant her the gown to wear to her prom. She chose to wear Doc Martins as footwear, (not pictured) which I love!

SALE was the entire month of may, by appointment, at my atelier

The city was gorgeous and provided much inspiration!

I went to the first art shows I had seen in 15 months- Lee Krasner collages at Paul Kasmin Gallery and Terry Winters Paintings and drawings at Matthew Marks Gallery

A visit to my studio

I ventured out last weekend to make a citibike trip to my studio where I haven’t been since early March. I was greeted by a lovely sunny view of everything in place just as I left it. I collected some fabric and things I could use to work from home. I am making a limited edition of masks and samples. To this end I have set up a page called “Shop” where you can view items that I have for purchase. In the spirit of couture, you may contact me directly to inquire about any items that you are interested in. I can send additional information/ photos on most items and answer questions as to fit and construction. I take many forms of payment including PayPal, Venmo, Zelle and regular credit cards. I hope you are all well and manginging to stay safe in our altered reality.♥️

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Stay Safe !

Stay Safe !

Colorful Couture Fall

The Chelsea Galleries are full of color and inspiration this month. I only have to leave my studio and walk a few steps to enter whole other worlds .

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Nicolas Party has transformed the Flag Art Foundation into a stage set for pastel works by various artists including Degas and Mary Cassatt. His Rococo- inspired murals cover whole rooms in the lavishly colored 2 floor space.

Pastel wall painting by Nicolas Party with painting by Edgar degas

Pastel wall painting by Nicolas Party with painting by Edgar degas

pearl silk and wool suit w/ cloisonné buttons

pearl silk and wool suit w/ cloisonné buttons

green silk jersey, wool Pierre Cardin -inspired Mom’s bat mitzvah dress, black chiffon, japanese cotton ikat dresses, white silk and wool jacket over silk shantung - chantilly lace overlay skirt

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Elisabeth Kley has teamed up with Tabboo! to create an enchanting environment of wall-painting and ceramic fountains at the Gordon Robichaux Gallery in Union Square reminiscent of a Roman Courtyard.

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Verdant Green silk Jersey top with African cotton wax print skirt

Verdant Green silk Jersey top with African cotton wax print skirt

Black English wool jacket with flower and lace adorned silk shantung skirt

Black English wool jacket with flower and lace adorned silk shantung skirt

Karen Kilimnik’s French-inspired small paintings and sculptures at 303 Gallery

Karen Kilimnik’s French-inspired small paintings and sculptures at 303 Gallery

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Indian Kantha quilt made into a Frock coat

Indian Kantha quilt made into a Frock coat

Draped cotton wax -print dress

Draped cotton wax -print dress

Philip Taaffe at Luhring augustine Gallery

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Japanese Cotton double-sided coat and dress ensemble made for client

Full Moon Friday the 13

It’s that time of year when the weather turns chilly- One day it’s summer and the next day is sweater weather. What to wear? It’s been a busy summer with lots of client work and some projects involving antique dresses. I’ve been making under slips for centuries old dresses so they can be brought back to life. My new ideas are still floating around my head waiting to be brought to life. Here is a glimpse back on what I have been doing . . .

End of Summer Sale on all remaining Dutch Wax Prints

I have a few dresses and other items left over from a very busy summer.  If you have had your eye on something, now is the time!  Please contact me with any questions you may have. These are all one-of-a kind hand-made items.

Bamboo Wax Print - sz 10 - waist 32" bust 38" was $425 - now $275.100% Cotton - machine washable - SOLD

Bamboo Wax Print - sz 10 - waist 32" bust 38" was $425 - now $275.

100% Cotton - machine washable - SOLD

Qipau Dress - size 8 - waist 28" Bust 36" Hip 38" was $475. now $300100% cotton - machine washable - sold

Qipau Dress - size 8 - waist 28" Bust 36" Hip 38" was $475. now $300

100% cotton - machine washable - sold

Butterfly Wrap Dress - sz 8 - 10 - waist up to 34" - Bust 37" was $475 - now $375.100% Cotton - Machine Washable - SOLD

Butterfly Wrap Dress - sz 8 - 10 - waist up to 34" - Bust 37" was $475 - now $375.

100% Cotton - Machine Washable - SOLD

Blue / white Tunic - sz 6 - Bust 34 waist 28 - was $285. now $175.100% Cotton - Machine Washable - sold

Blue / white Tunic - sz 6 - Bust 34 waist 28 - was $285. now $175.

100% Cotton - Machine Washable - sold

Long Yellow/Green Bow Dress - sz 6 - 35" Bust 28" waist - was $675. now $475.100% Cotton - sold

Long Yellow/Green Bow Dress - sz 6 - 35" Bust 28" waist - was $675. now $475.

100% Cotton - sold

VIP Dress - sz 10 waist 34' bust 38" - was $475 now $300.100% Cotton machine washable - SOLD

VIP Dress - sz 10 waist 34' bust 38" - was $475 now $300.

100% Cotton machine washable - SOLD

Kimono Sleeve Dress - sz 6-8 waist 30" bust 34" - was $575 now $375polyester machine washable  -  sold

Kimono Sleeve Dress - sz 6-8 waist 30" bust 34" - was $575 now $375

polyester machine washable - sold

Spinner Wrap Dress - sz 10 - waist adjustable up to 33" Bust 38" was $475. now $325.100% Cotton machine washable - SOLD

Spinner Wrap Dress - sz 10 - waist adjustable up to 33" Bust 38" was $475. now $325.

100% Cotton machine washable - SOLD

Best Dressmakers and custom Tailors in NYC

The wonderful Linda Dyett originally wrote this article for the online magazine NY City Women from which I have excerpted here.

suit and dresses by Elizabeth Cannon

suit and dresses by Elizabeth Cannon

 

Custom-Made Womenswear

New York City’s couture-dressmakers, tailors and custom-fitters are on the rebound. Here’s a guide to 10 who make the cut.

by Linda Dyett

We consumers—especially midlife and older Americans—are paring down our wardrobes and shopping less and less these days—but we’re also spending more for higher-quality wearables that express our individuality and suit us to a T. And after a decade of online point-and-click purchases, a lot of us are also eager to return to hands-on service in brick-and-mortar surroundings. 

Enter custom-made—the artisanal antidote to fast fashion. Long the province of moneyed elites, celebrities, and mothers of the bride, custom dressmaking and tailoring are today also attracting regular women, who aren’t necessarily in the market for a dress to wear to a black-tie event. These new customers are ladies with style intuition, who know the cuts, fabrics, and colors they want when they see them. And with dozens of hours of pattern-making, cutting, sewing (sometimes by hand), and intricate multiple fittings, custom-made confers an optimal fit that disguises a bulging waist, out-of-shape hips, thighs, and arms, droopy breasts, posture slump, spinal curve, and other figure flaws.  

Of course couture dressmakers and tailors come at a price. While I’ve located one who’ll work up one of her off-the-rack $100 to $400 dresses in a different size for no extra fee, most charge $240 and up for custom-made blouses and shirts; $500 and up for made-to-measure  (a widely used industry term referring to garments derived from a standard pattern); and $1,500 and up for made-to-order dresses and suits. These are hardly bargains, but they compare so favorably with higher-end, A-list designer ready-to-wear that plenty of women, once they’ve tried New York couture, won’t switch back.

Here’s a rundown of some of the city’s most celebrated as well as off-the-beaten-track dressmakers and tailors who excel in couture and made-to-measure. Just keep in mind: what they offer isn’t seasonal fashion; it’s all about personal, individual style that you can hand down to your daughter or granddaughter, who’ll cherish it as much as you do. Appointments are essential almost everywhere, and finished garments take at least a month—sometimes several—to produce. 

Elizabeth Cannon

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Ensconced in a ground floor London Terrace studio, Elizabeth Cannon is that impossible-to-find accessible couturière whom stylish, independent-minded New York women dream about. Having honed her trade making costumes for the Paris Opera Ballet, her inspirations ranging from the Commedia dell’arte to Cocteau, she’s been designing made-to-order one-offs with a lyrical urban edge  since 1980. Her clients? “Very decisive” artists, musicians, gallery owners, and entertainment executives, as well as members of the Trisha Brown Dance Company. “Nothing has ever fit me so perfectly,” says one delighted customer. “It’s as if Elizabeth were channeling Schiaparelli,” says another. 

Cannon does couture by the book, using custom-padded dressmaker forms, muslins (initial mock-ups in an inexpensive fabric), and sometimes interior boned corsets. She also offers a signature collection of off-the-rack casual day- and eveningwear ($500 and up, though prices can plummet to $100 at frequent sales) that can be altered to fit. Outstanding items: A New Look-style silk shantung dress and jacket for a mother of the bride ($3,500); a silk-cotton blouse and heavy silk floral-print skirt with reinforced corseted yoke for a mother of the groom ($2,800); an African wax-print summer dress ($750); a belted, striped men’s shirting chemise, ($575, readymade; $750, made-to-order) that riffs on the frock Francoise Gilot wore in an iconic 1948 photo strolling along a French beach with an umbrella-wielding Pablo Picasso. Elizabeth Cannon Couture, 460 West 24th St., 212.929.8552.   

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the full article appears here

 

 

 

Wax-Print Dresses

A selection of Wax-Print dresses currently available at my studio-  will be expanding -  please check back and feel free to contact me about prices and sizing

Studio Notes

I haven't posted for the last few months, but am excited to share some of what I've been working on.  My studio and work have been a refuge.  As always, art has been a part of my life and directly inspiring to my couture.  Clients have brought me exciting fabrics to work with and some older pieces have returned for a brief visit. Color is always an important factor.  

Harris Tweed Wool suit returning for a nip and tuck

Harris Tweed Wool suit returning for a nip and tuck

Custom decorator wool fabric / outfit for client

Custom decorator wool fabric / outfit for client

Rothko Paintings at Pace Gallery, Chelsea

Amber velvet silk and Rayon dress draped and made from leftover pieces

Amber velvet silk and Rayon dress draped and made from leftover pieces

Amber velvet Dress with a lace Bolero (unfinished) modeled as a tunic by Mary Jones

Mary Heilmann table on New Year's Eve

Mary Heilmann table on New Year's Eve

Taro Suzuki  Tantric painting

Taro Suzuki  Tantric painting

Red Wool Draped Dress with asymmetrical hem

Red Wool Draped Dress with asymmetrical hem

Red Flowers Silk Gazar Skirt for client

Red Flowers Silk Gazar Skirt for client

The colors in these Ron Gorchov Paintings at Cheim and Read Gallery in Chelsea are so lucious

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Ponté knit Jacket  with snap closure for client -  painting by Taro Suzuki

Ponté knit Jacket  with snap closure for client -  painting by Taro Suzuki

Vilsco Wax print

Vilsco Wax print

work in progress 

Appliqué cotton dress, draped wax-print, wool jacket, silk charmeuse skirt

Appliqué cotton dress, draped wax-print, wool jacket, silk charmeuse skirt

detail /  cotton wax prints

detail /  cotton wax prints

Liberty cotton blouse, Ponté knit jacket, camel wool crepe dress

Liberty cotton blouse, Ponté knit jacket, camel wool crepe dress

watercolor after a Pompeii fresco

watercolor after a Pompeii fresco

More to come soon. . .

Artists Choose Designer- from the Archives

On Dec 12, 1986- January 4 1987 - Almost exactly 30 years ago- I did a show at the E. M. Donahue Gallery called "Artists Choose Designer" .  It was a cheeky title, because I actually chose 13 artists to design fabric for me rather than the other way around.  

cotton fabric designed with potato prints by Mary Boochever.       photo: Warren Mantooth

cotton fabric designed with potato prints by Mary Boochever.       photo: Warren Mantooth

show  invitation

show  invitation

Garments were displayed on plaster cast dress forms and tension suspended from top and bottom with technical help from Diane Lewis and lighting design by Taro Suzuki

Installation shot

Installation shot

Pouf-skirt dress made of cotton velvet and cotton painted by Dike Blair   photo-  Warren Mantooth

Pouf-skirt dress made of cotton velvet and cotton painted by Dike Blair   photo-  Warren Mantooth

Cotton velvet coat with day-glo dots by Taro Suzuki and dress on form painted by Dike Blair-  photo- Janette Beckman from Prêt Magazine

Cotton velvet coat with day-glo dots by Taro Suzuki and dress on form painted by Dike Blair-  photo- Janette Beckman from Prêt Magazine

Cotton 2-piece dress from silk screen print by Joseph Nechvatel

Cotton 2-piece dress from silk screen print by Joseph Nechvatel

cotton fish dress painted by Eve Vaterlaus.                                                  photo- Warren Mantooth

cotton fish dress painted by Eve Vaterlaus.                                                  photo- Warren Mantooth

Silk Shantung halter dress with cotton underskirt and button corset belt painted by Tommy Trosch            photo- Warren Mantooth

Silk Shantung halter dress with cotton underskirt and button corset belt painted by Tommy Trosch            photo- Warren Mantooth

Baby blue leather coat painted in silver marker ink by Jo Shane from Cocteau drawings

Baby blue leather coat painted in silver marker ink by Jo Shane from Cocteau drawings

Plaster custom dress form 

Plaster custom dress form 

Black Chiffon, silk and Wax-prints

Some of these dresses appeared in a previous post, in various states of completion. I am playing between the seasons, trying out different styles and moods, preparing for an upcoming sale. 

This dress really has no season, weighs about 5 ounces, and goes just about anywhere 

Black silk chiffon /lycra with caviar beaded collar and ribbon belt.  covered snap front closure

Black silk chiffon /lycra with caviar beaded collar and ribbon belt.  covered snap front closure

Regal, playful, vibrant  -  I am sure that all the images on this fabric have meanings- there are coiled snakes, calla-lilies and birds, as well as an elaborate monogram.  I was attracted to this fabric by it's complexity and let the patterns of the fabric guide my design process.

African Wax print cotton , halter-neck, floor length, size 4-6

African Wax print cotton , halter-neck, floor length, size 4-6

This fabric has a beautiful hand. The dress is lined in rayon bemberg.  It's a great holiday dress.

Silver silk/wool blend.  with pockets and tie belt. Lace necklace is separate from the dress.

Silver silk/wool blend.  with pockets and tie belt. Lace necklace is separate from the dress.

A soft petal-pink very easy top and very stretchy and easy skirt-  this is a romantic look with a flattering silhouette.

 silk charmeuse top with silk flowers and chiffon band- poly plissé skirt 

 

silk charmeuse top with silk flowers and chiffon band- poly plissé skirt