More Octopus ❣️

My friend Anushka Paris Carter who wore the Jumeliere dress in below post was gracious enough to model the Octopus dress in my studio. She is the co-writer and director/producer of the play “Uncommon Sense” and is working on a new project now. The fabric, as noted below, was hand-painted by artist Eve Vaterlaus, with whom I have had an on-going collaboration since the 1980’s. We have created many hand-painted dresses together over the years.

The Tao of the Drape

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Fabrics always have the upper hand. Color and pattern predominate. Each fabric has an individual nature and I like to observe it before cutting. What does it want to become?

I gave this length of pink 4-ply silk to my friend and collaborator Eve Vaterlaus. She came up with the idea to paint an Ocropus which was quite challenging both to paint and also to fashion into a dress.

As is usually the case with hand-painted fabric I drape it right on the form rather than make a pattern first.

I used a fleshy silk georgette as the lining and underskirt after much back and forth over what to choose. It was serendipitous that the tentacle lined up between the upper back bodice and skirt section.

We first pictured the Octopus eye at the top of the fabric, but it seemed to belong in the side front swirl of the skirt.

The blue background fabric was painted by my dear friend Michel Bergonne who passed away last April in Paris.

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In August 2001 we spent my 50th birthday in a castle in France with my dear Viennese friend Marieli Fröhlich and her immediate family and friends. I did the hand beading and sequinning on this net dress which was to be included in an upcoming solo gallery show.

In June of this year my friend actor and playright Anushka Paris Carter who I hadn’t heard from in many years, wrote me to ask if her daughter could wear the Jumeliere dress to her prom. I said Yes, absolutely! and we arranged a visit.

Zoe had seen pictures of her Mom wearing the dress at the Tony’s and also the Emmy Awards and had long fantasized about wearing it herself.

Anushka Paris Carter and husband Andy Paris who was nominated as one of the writers of The Laramie Project

Ballet Dancer Zoe Paris Carter on the night of her high school prom wearing the Jumeliere Dress

I am working on mother of the groom dress for an August wedding. The client wanted a shawl to go over the dress. I hand painted a piece of silk organza and was very unsure about it - until I saw a Cy Twombly painting of roses at the Flagg art Foundation in a show called A Rose Is.

silk cloqué organza with hand-painted silk organza shawl

Cy Twombly Roses at the Flagg Art Foundation

Silk Organza shawl draped

Client trying on shoes to go with mother of the groom dress

I have had this blue linen check fabric in a client’s stash for several years. I didn’t really know what to do with it as it seemed rather dull until I placed the fabric on the bias- I also lined the sleeves and hem with a burnt red linen that matched the stripe.

Blue and red check linen dress

The interfaced linen band at hem gave the dress some body without which it seems rather limp.

linen herringbone suit with white cotton trim and zip jacket

Liberty cotton dress for 1 yr old grand niece Ayla

back of Aylas dress with adjustable bow

3 yr old Charlotte in Greece wearing her birthday dress

Thank you for visiting! Let’s try and keep the world safe and beautiful and free for the children❤️

Spring Blooms

It’s an abundant season in New York this Spring. The flowers are at their peak and there are fantastic art exhibits all over.

Indian Block prink cotton dress with bows

2 of the Grandnieces had birthdays in April which occaisoned new dresses.

There were clothes for grown-ups too like this moss cashmere day dress and brown wool plaid jacket with orange corduroy pants.

Vlisco wine bottle print shirt for client who owns a vineyard

checking the drape of dress for mother-of-the groom - silk cloqué organza

Dragonfly print cotton dress

Blouse made from silk crepe de chine hand-painted by Thomas Trosch

Mary Heilmann at the opening of her show at 303 Gallery

wearing silk blouse hand-painted by Thomas Trosch

Family gathering for grand nieces birthday party - Charlotte-3 yrs (taking a nap) and Eliza 1 yr on couch at right

I will be having a sale soon, so please check back for details - Happy Spring and Thank you for visiting❣️🌸👗

Love is in the Air

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The weather is dismal, news unrelenting, flus and colds persist . .and yet. . .

wax print Pierrot dress sz 4-6

As you can probably tell if you’ve looked at my website or blog, I love working with patterns. When a client brought a scarf back from Indonesia with the request that it inspire an outfit, we were off and running.

I gave the scarf to my collaborator, artist Eve Vaterlaus, to come up with some ideas. After some back and forth she painted a motif of roses and apples that the client loved.

Hand-painted cotton blouse with cotton piping and etched bone buttons - cotton, wool and silk skirt

Client likes a coordinated vest for the warm weather in Indonesia rather than a jacket

we designed the blouse in an Asian style to better show off the fabric print and I went against sartorial rules for a women’s garment and fastened the blouse from left to right for the same reason..

The piped edges and facing gave a weight to the garment - I love the minimal back

Still loving and having fun with the wax prints and my new dress form from Andy’s dress forms that fits me perfectly! I now want all the sizes from Andy’s!! They are made by hand in NYC

A Happy Belated Valentines Day to All❣️

Flowers from my darling husband❤️

Gala Dressing

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A week before the 2024 election it is safe to say we are suspended in time- holding our breath, or perhaps working like crazy on behalf of our candidate. Personally I say VOTE - VOTE BLUE - and elect Kamala Harris!

n the occasion of the 200th anniversary of the Marquis de Lafayette’s visit to George Washington’s home Mt. Vernon- I created this blue ensemble for a very valued client.

silk Matelesé dress and jacket

Jacket with “faux bow” attaches with inside coat hook

Client’s own heirloom pin on moiré ribbon

Jacket and dress cuffs lined in ochre moiré - Bolero follows line of seam in dress

Occasionally a client will find a dress that has been in my studio for a few years and it is love at first sight- with a few revisions the perfect outfit for an upcoming Gala

Silk satin stripe organza gown with beaded detail

back of dress with lace inset

back with lace detail

A visiter to my website wanted an outfit recreated for a nephew’s lavish wedding in Rome. I was able to find the same corded Alençon lace at Gelmore Lace. The swarvoski crystal Buttons are from M & J Trimming- saddly due to close at the end of this year.

Silk chiffon blouse w/ swarvski buttons and sleeve bows - Alençon lace skirt lined in crepe back silk satin

Navy silk chiffon blouse

New addition to the family- grand neice Ayla - daughter of neice Ellie and wife Shy with Ellie in matching couture- never too young❣️

Ellie and Ayla in matching cotton wax print dresses - fabric from Eliebea

stay sane and dont forget to dress up and Vote ! Thank you for visiting ❣️

Lace Calme Et Volupté

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This summer I had several projects which involved lace. A young client wanted a top for a skirt she had bought for a “cottage core” wedding. The wedding was to be held at Babbington House in England. I found the perfect lace at Gelmor Lace - a family owned company dealing exclusively with authentic french lace for 3 generations. They also had the lace trim which I used to finish the neckline and sleeve edges.

french alençon lace with half bralette in silk charmeuse

The bride wanted to incorporate elements from her mother and grandmother’s wedding dresses. The buttons on the back of the top were from her grandmother’s dress. I used eyelet trim from her mother’’s dress to finish the seams on the inside of the top.

back - lace wedding top with satin-covered buttons 

A client came who was to be a guest at her nephew’s lavish wedding in Rome. She wanted me to replicate an outfit from my website. It was from a trunk show 10 years ago which proves that classic design never goes out of style!

Blouse - Silk chiffon with lycra.  crystal buttons - skirt - Aleçon lace with silk crepe-back satin lining in blush

A very dear and loyal client needed a dress for her daughter’s wedding. (I had made her maternity clothes when she had been pregnant!) She wanted to wear a dress she had gotten from one of my sales a few years back which needed some alteration.s. She also needed a jacket to go with it.. The very talented Michael at B&J Fabrics found the flower motif chiffon-embellished net to which I added the blue details to further coordinate the 2 elements.

Silk shantung puff skirt dress with Navy embroidered design -   silk chiffon on net bolero jacket

back view -  silk shantung dress with net and silk jacket

front - silk shantung strapless dress with flower appliqué and silk ric-rac trim

A client who was made princess of 2 Indonesian islands receives many gift from the royal family of fabric and clothing manufactured in their country. It is expected on her return that she will be wearing them incorporated into her wardrobe. I made this lilac ensemble to go with an embroidered vest of a material akin to plastic. (in picture below)

Irredescent cotton voile shirt using fabric selfvage at center front and unraveled edges as decorative elements.  Gimp trim was also applied.  skirt is a vibrant cotton.  Fabrics from B&J.

Detail of cotton voile irridescent cotton blouse.

client wearing the outfit in Indonesia 

Fabric brought back from India by client- Indigo-dyed cotton paisley

Cotton Vlisco fabric brought to me by a client for a dress she wore at the Gordon Parks Foundation Gala. When I held the fabric up and draped it on her she said she wanted a dress with that exact look of casual draping.

Cotton wax print Vlisco fabric- printed in Holland 

Wax print dress from studio - now in client collection - I found the same floral motif in a tablecloth my husband’s mother made in the 60’s

Vlisco wax print dress with pockets in traditional pattern

in client's collection - vlisco print of hand holding flowers - I found the pattern more appealing and less obvious when placed upside down and at an angle on the body.

vlisco wax print cotton one shoulder dress - hands holding a bunch of flowers

Vlisco wax print skirt with designer's own blouse - japanese cotton with selvage detail- after Matisse-

moving into early fall- a 2-tone denim jacket with antique Austrian buttons over a linen dress-in-progress for client - jacket also has coordinating brown denim trousers.

Cotton denim jacket with zip front  - linen dress with front buttons

The summer went by fast! Lots of work and also new grand nieces, visits with friends and family and lots of bike rides

Thanks for stopping by - Remember to Dress for pleasure❣️

Flowers of Spring

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I can’t help but be inspired by the growth and renewal all around us- even as the world feels uncertain and brutal in so many ways, Spring has always been a symbol of hope and new life-

Fil Coupé silk organza blouse w/ flowers and butterflies

Silk tweed skirt and vest with gold trim and Oscar (de La Renta) buttons

detail

I looked everywhere for the buttons to tie this outfit together and finally found these perfect cloisonné ones at Mood. The silk organza blouse fabric is from B&J fabrics. Tweed was brought to me by client

Found this incredible cotton print a few years ago at Beckenstein Fabrics and not sure what we would do with it. .

Elephants on orange clouds among multi-colored plaid and decorative motifs

The idea coalesced when we looked at this Kantha print- also bought a few years ago during Covid- and decided the two were meant for each other!

Short Kantha cotton quilted jacket over Elephant print dress.

Mother of the Groom - wedding in Germany

Cotton print dress with silk and wool coat

Around town

Joan Jonas at Moma

My costumes at the Joyce

Central Park Conservancy Garden in April

New Grandniece - Elizabeth - born in April

Another Grandniece on the way!

Riding through Central Park

Thank you so much for visiting! Please stay safe and be kind ❤️

Making a Couture wardrobe

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Couture means having your clothes tailored just for you- to your taste, fit and needs. A chic pair of PJ’s for walking the dog? Why not!

Blue cotton flannel with indigo cotton trim Printed in Japan

“Beaton” wool houndstooth tweed fabric made in London from Dashing Tweeds with shell buttons

wool Loden jacket with cashmere details and horn buttons - not shown- matching cashmere pants

Wool Plaid dress with frog details

cashmire suit and silk cravat blouse with client-provided materials

Archipelago

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I came upon these notes I wrote 13 years ago and also the photos that accompany them which popped up as a memory on Facebook. It turns out that I also met the artist, Jerelyn Hanrahan, who created the Pearl sculpture through Facebook quite a few years after taking these pictures.

Alaina Ferris modeling in front of Jereyln Hanrahan’s pearl sculpture

Archipelago

Black silk with large ecru polka- dots. Saw fabric in Dec and kept swatch; romancing it, lusting after it- afraid of it. Polka-dots- such a polarizing statement. very loaded iconography. Spanish roots? Society women wouldn’t be caught dead in a large polka-dot dress. Gilles from Paris (James Lord’s companion and adopted son) declaring them to be gauche- only hookers would wear them. An irredeemably clownish aspect- Flamenco flamboyance, so seductive and dangerous, yet verging on the silly and laughable. July 6- could not resist. Having sketched a design for Paris trunk show- bought 3 yards. Fantasized about buying 6 more perhaps. . .to have enough. Immediately deçu! Not right- too regular, vulgar- no one would be caught dead in it! Left the roll of fabric sitting in a corner for 2 days- glancing at it, only unfurling it once part way to ascertain the hand of it. doubts about skirt- needs to be on the bias, broken up a bit- given more life. July 8 - Unfurl it. Quickly decide to cut off one length - 44”, not realizng I am making a square. cut the 2nd 44” and have 12”left over. Good. Begin draping a skirt. Not on bias, but with a sarong-like fold in front. Move it to the bust on dress form. Loving it! loving the way the folds fall over the bust- tuck the excess over and sew into place before I don’t lose it. Impossible to replicate! Begin in back- try the same thing- pin - try on - lose pins - pin on straps - keep losing it. Decide to take in fullness in top back. Yes! It is working. . . try on many times - pinning, re-pinning, testing. It works! Fabric feels luscious- Billows, moves like a sail with a breeze.

Tweeds, cowls and dancers

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This year has started with lots of work. - outfits for clients’ events near and far - new African fabrics from Vlisco waiting to be cut and some new dance costumes for a piece I designed in 2019.

Trisha Brown dancers in “Working Title” photographed on French tour by Delphine Perrin

There were some new dancers in the company since I made the original costumes- The dancer on the left is the 4th one to wear this costume with a bit of tweaking. The middle costume is entirely new and the fushia orchid pants are a new addition. I didn’t use any stretch in the fabics (all cotton & silk) The pants must accomodate a wide range of movement and stand up to many wearings and washings! The first thing the dancers do when trying on the pants is a deep plié. I am always so relieved when they perform well.

Coming to the Joyce Theater NYC March 26 - 31

I was contacted by someone from my website who wanted to give a gift certificate to his sister. It took about a year for her to contact me, but when we met she ordered a dress and chose fabric of which I had a small piece in my studio. The fabric was a block print from India, I didn’t remember the vendor. After a google image search I was able to find someone in India who printed the exact pattern for me. She was very happy with the dress and buttons that I found . her brother also bought her a mohair coat from my studio as a second gift .

Both of these tweeds were brought to me by the client. I had the double sided silk satin from Paris which matched beautifully. The velvet trims tied it together and the raw edged ruffled collar was the finishing touch!

multi -tweed jacket over silk satin dress

The fabric in this dress actually has strands of tartan cloth woven into it,

Wool tweed with generous pockets and self fringe detail on sleeves

tartan strips woven into fabric

These blue silk fabrics were brought to me by a different client . She had a niece’s bat mitzvah in February. I made her a dress and coat of a fairly simple shape which let the fabrics speak

Ice blue silk and wool sheath dress with cowl neckline

Silk brocade rhinestone embellished fabric in coat over silk & wool cowl dress

35 yards of wax- printed cotton to inspire and play with all washed and waiting. . .

Thank you for visiting! Please check back soon❤️

Dressing Up for the New Year

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It’s been a harrowing and unsettling time for many and the future feels uncertain. It is good to connect in person and perhaps indulge in some sartorial fun. My winter sale was the setting for much good cheer and an oasis from the outside world.

Artists Mary Jones in Silk Satin stripe organza dress and Jill Levine in Silk cheongsan dress with flower embellishment.

Caroline wearing silk velvet “Confetti Dress” from 1995 show with Mary Heilmann “Crimson and Clover”

Laurie Eustis Taffetta Coral dress

Joelle Reilly in Wax print skirt with silk paint splatter sash

Mary Jones shopping the rack

Joanne Gair in Fallen Tree dress

The Twi proverb written on this dress says ‘Dua Kur Gye Enum A Obu” which means “A Tree Alone Cannot stand the Wind”

Wishing everyone a Healthy Peacfull and love-filled New Year❣️

Goodbye Summer

Looking Back - Looking forward

This summer was mostly filled with work. After breaking my foot on April 15 I focused on healing and taking a longer and harder route to and from my studio-

I met with my old school friend from boarding school, whom I had’nt seen in many decades, to collaborate on a mother of the groom dress for her son’s wedding.

Finished dress - Flowered Silk multi-layer Organza - Mother of the Groom with daughter-in-law at Nantucket Wedding

I had another wedding commission - Mother of the Bride for a Bermuda client - I helped her pick out the English blue cotton and Silk brocade which exactly matched her eyes - The green flowered dress next to it ( both in progress) was one of the few projects that were not for clients- The fabric reminded me of Monet’s garden-

Printed silk chiffon dress with silk lining for mother of the Bride rehearsal dinner

The dress- in silk chiffon so light and diaphanous it seemed to float in air.

A client brought me a length of fabric she had been given in Indonesia where she travels and lectures frequently. She is often given gifts and was made a princess of 2 indonesian islands in recognition of the work she has done there. The fabric depicted the village life and culture . We made an outfit that would honor that culture and that she could wear to a peace conference on a future trip.

Another client brought me some block-printed fabric from a trip to London. In the first dress I used the fabric selvage edge to disguise a hidden front zipper. The second dress had 3 different snap on ornamental accents.

In progress - Oscar de la Renta fabric which needed to be appliquéd to create a pleasing design as all the lemons were concentrated on one side of the fabric. I had saved a picture from a few years ago of the same motif used by de la renta in a dress. I was now shocked to observe that they had also used an appliqué technique, but with an entirely different fabric piece. The dress and my appliquéd scarf below. . .

Finished Outfit - Tweed vest and skirt, Cloisonné buttons, organza blouse and scarf with Lemon motif -

Dress for a black tie event with reversible evening wrap and an optional pin-on bow

A vintage silk and cotton ottoman faille - double-sided.

Nantucket wedding with mother of groom

from n magazine in Nantucket

Fun was had at our annual Hamptons Birthday weekend- If you’ve stayed this far - ❤️🚴‍♀️😎

Summer Chiffon & Blue Velvet

On a hot sultry day one wants something light and airy. Perhaps a dress of floral printed silk chiffon. This pattern reminds me of Monet’s garden., Giverny. Paired with a linen burlap -textured jacket it becomes an outfit for meetings, traveling or n’importe quoi. The blue velvet dress, on the other hand, one can dream about wearing to a winter fête or a dinner by candlelight in the chilly months.

silk chiffon dress with snaps down front and double tie sash. worn with emerald silk slip

silk chiffon dress worn with camel color linen jacket lined in silk charmeuse

blue velvet dress with boned bodice and diamanté straps- low back and floor length skirt - lined in silk

model: Ellison Mellor

Earth Day - Spring - Art - Couture - Flowers

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Lots going on in NYC. I do love flowers, so this is one of my favorite times of year! It is also the month my grand niece Charlotte was born 1 year ago and the month my brother died 3 years ago. I always think of T.S. Eliot in April. There is a cycle to everything. It is a bittersweet time and a time for connecting after a long winter (not so cold here in the Northeast) and a very delicate time for our planet. My guiding principle: be kind, be curious and strive for beauty.

Embroidered linen coat lined in cornflower silk charmeuse, cotton blouse with silk covered buttons and accents, orange silk linen pants for client

Stripe and bubble print cotton blouse, silk covered buttons and accents- part of ensemble for client

2 of my favorite artists wearing my clothes : Mary Heilmann at Mark Bradford show NYC and Judith Linhares at her own opening - Massimo deCarlo Gallery, London - Judith’s pictures by #amandamarieimages last image: me at Mary Heilmann’s recent show at 303 Gallery NYC

raw silk shirtwaist dress for client

Cotton plaid jacket , cotton silk blend pants for client

At my husband, Taro Suzuki’s studio with one of his new paintings “Blue Cheer”

1 year birthday party!

in my studio surrounded by what I love! pic by Amanda Marie Mason #amandamarieimages

🌷Thank you for stopping by! 🌸

Working with Couture Fabrics

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I’ve been working on outfits for clients near and far - here is a peak into my studio these first months of 2023 -

a spectacular textured silk and wool from Italy with Fleur de Lys 3-D embellishments -

I made a rosette pin as an embellishment

The complete outfit for an ambassador dinner with Ottoman coat and 4-ply silk splatter lining and scarf

Iridescent silk dress in a color I call Absynthe with puckered details borrowed from the V& A antique costume collection

Tweed jacket with gold trim, silk chiffon blouse and corduroy skirt

Surprise pink silk lining

Lightweight wool challis brought to me by client

blue wool and mohair coat with fabric given to me by above client

Continuing the blue theme- a blue velvet dress I made as a sample

Dark Navy cashmere coat with appliques made for fun as sample - inspiration taken from dear friends I’ve lost and hold near me

This summery chiffon dress came to visit for a touch-up

Anticipating Spring! Fun was had at my Winter sale

Love and good health to all! Keep your heart open

My littlest client and grandniece in her polka-dot Christmas dress with chiffon collar

Winter Sale

I’m having a sale at my studio on Saturday, Dec. 10 from 2-6 at my studio - 460 W. 24 St. 1B - enter through blk canopy 450

these are just a few of the many items I will have on sale - I am seriously trying to make room in my studio space for new work! If you can’t make it to the sale but wish to visit- please contact me to make an appointment.

please click on lower right corner of image to see sizes and prices

Happy Holidays!! Elizabeth

Fall in all it's beauty

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There’s always something reassuring and thrilling to me as the seasons change - and this year the colors of Fall in New York where I am are gloriously beautiful. One wants to be wrapped up in cozy scarves and lovely wool fabrics. At least I do. And happily my clients agree with me. I’ve been at work on some Fall and winter outfits for several months.

Cashmere loden coat with orange wool crepe piping and crest buttons for client

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