Couture means having your clothes tailored just for you- to your taste, fit and needs. A chic pair of PJ’s for walking the dog? Why not!
Archipelago
I came upon these notes I wrote 13 years ago and also the photos that accompany them which popped up as a memory on Facebook. It turns out that I also met the artist, Jerelyn Hanrahan, who created the Pearl sculpture through Facebook quite a few years after taking these pictures.
Archipelago
Black silk with large ecru polka- dots. Saw fabric in Dec and kept swatch; romancing it, lusting after it- afraid of it. Polka-dots- such a polarizing statement. very loaded iconography. Spanish roots? Society women wouldn’t be caught dead in a large polka-dot dress. Gilles from Paris (James Lord’s companion and adopted son) declaring them to be gauche- only hookers would wear them. An irredeemably clownish aspect- Flamenco flamboyance, so seductive and dangerous, yet verging on the silly and laughable. July 6- could not resist. Having sketched a design for Paris trunk show- bought 3 yards. Fantasized about buying 6 more perhaps. . .to have enough. Immediately deçu! Not right- too regular, vulgar- no one would be caught dead in it! Left the roll of fabric sitting in a corner for 2 days- glancing at it, only unfurling it once part way to ascertain the hand of it. doubts about skirt- needs to be on the bias, broken up a bit- given more life. July 8 - Unfurl it. Quickly decide to cut off one length - 44”, not realizng I am making a square. cut the 2nd 44” and have 12”left over. Good. Begin draping a skirt. Not on bias, but with a sarong-like fold in front. Move it to the bust on dress form. Loving it! loving the way the folds fall over the bust- tuck the excess over and sew into place before I don’t lose it. Impossible to replicate! Begin in back- try the same thing- pin - try on - lose pins - pin on straps - keep losing it. Decide to take in fullness in top back. Yes! It is working. . . try on many times - pinning, re-pinning, testing. It works! Fabric feels luscious- Billows, moves like a sail with a breeze.
Happy Valentines Day ❤️❤️❤️
Tweeds, cowls and dancers
This year has started with lots of work. - outfits for clients’ events near and far - new African fabrics from Vlisco waiting to be cut and some new dance costumes for a piece I designed in 2019.
There were some new dancers in the company since I made the original costumes- The dancer on the left is the 4th one to wear this costume with a bit of tweaking. The middle costume is entirely new and the fushia orchid pants are a new addition. I didn’t use any stretch in the fabics (all cotton & silk) The pants must accomodate a wide range of movement and stand up to many wearings and washings! The first thing the dancers do when trying on the pants is a deep plié. I am always so relieved when they perform well.
Coming to the Joyce Theater NYC March 26 - 31
I was contacted by someone from my website who wanted to give a gift certificate to his sister. It took about a year for her to contact me, but when we met she ordered a dress and chose fabric of which I had a small piece in my studio. The fabric was a block print from India, I didn’t remember the vendor. After a google image search I was able to find someone in India who printed the exact pattern for me. She was very happy with the dress and buttons that I found . her brother also bought her a mohair coat from my studio as a second gift .
Both of these tweeds were brought to me by the client. I had the double sided silk satin from Paris which matched beautifully. The velvet trims tied it together and the raw edged ruffled collar was the finishing touch!
The fabric in this dress actually has strands of tartan cloth woven into it,
These blue silk fabrics were brought to me by a different client . She had a niece’s bat mitzvah in February. I made her a dress and coat of a fairly simple shape which let the fabrics speak
35 yards of wax- printed cotton to inspire and play with all washed and waiting. . .
Thank you for visiting! Please check back soon❤️
Dressing Up for the New Year
It’s been a harrowing and unsettling time for many and the future feels uncertain. It is good to connect in person and perhaps indulge in some sartorial fun. My winter sale was the setting for much good cheer and an oasis from the outside world.
The Twi proverb written on this dress says ‘Dua Kur Gye Enum A Obu” which means “A Tree Alone Cannot stand the Wind”
Wishing everyone a Healthy Peacfull and love-filled New Year❣️
Winter Sale
Goodbye Summer
Looking Back - Looking forward
This summer was mostly filled with work. After breaking my foot on April 15 I focused on healing and taking a longer and harder route to and from my studio-
A client brought me a length of fabric she had been given in Indonesia where she travels and lectures frequently. She is often given gifts and was made a princess of 2 indonesian islands in recognition of the work she has done there. The fabric depicted the village life and culture . We made an outfit that would honor that culture and that she could wear to a peace conference on a future trip.
Another client brought me some block-printed fabric from a trip to London. In the first dress I used the fabric selvage edge to disguise a hidden front zipper. The second dress had 3 different snap on ornamental accents.
Dress for a black tie event with reversible evening wrap and an optional pin-on bow
Nantucket wedding with mother of groom
Fun was had at our annual Hamptons Birthday weekend- If you’ve stayed this far - ❤️🚴♀️😎
Summer Chiffon & Blue Velvet
On a hot sultry day one wants something light and airy. Perhaps a dress of floral printed silk chiffon. This pattern reminds me of Monet’s garden., Giverny. Paired with a linen burlap -textured jacket it becomes an outfit for meetings, traveling or n’importe quoi. The blue velvet dress, on the other hand, one can dream about wearing to a winter fête or a dinner by candlelight in the chilly months.
Earth Day - Spring - Art - Couture - Flowers
Lots going on in NYC. I do love flowers, so this is one of my favorite times of year! It is also the month my grand niece Charlotte was born 1 year ago and the month my brother died 3 years ago. I always think of T.S. Eliot in April. There is a cycle to everything. It is a bittersweet time and a time for connecting after a long winter (not so cold here in the Northeast) and a very delicate time for our planet. My guiding principle: be kind, be curious and strive for beauty.
Embroidered linen coat lined in cornflower silk charmeuse, cotton blouse with silk covered buttons and accents, orange silk linen pants for client
Stripe and bubble print cotton blouse, silk covered buttons and accents- part of ensemble for client
2 of my favorite artists wearing my clothes : Mary Heilmann at Mark Bradford show NYC and Judith Linhares at her own opening - Massimo deCarlo Gallery, London - Judith’s pictures by #amandamarieimages last image: me at Mary Heilmann’s recent show at 303 Gallery NYC
raw silk shirtwaist dress for client
1 year birthday party!
🌷Thank you for stopping by! 🌸
Working with Couture Fabrics
I’ve been working on outfits for clients near and far - here is a peak into my studio these first months of 2023 -
Winter Sale
I’m having a sale at my studio on Saturday, Dec. 10 from 2-6 at my studio - 460 W. 24 St. 1B - enter through blk canopy 450
these are just a few of the many items I will have on sale - I am seriously trying to make room in my studio space for new work! If you can’t make it to the sale but wish to visit- please contact me to make an appointment.
please click on lower right corner of image to see sizes and prices
Happy Holidays!! Elizabeth
Fall in all it's beauty
There’s always something reassuring and thrilling to me as the seasons change - and this year the colors of Fall in New York where I am are gloriously beautiful. One wants to be wrapped up in cozy scarves and lovely wool fabrics. At least I do. And happily my clients agree with me. I’ve been at work on some Fall and winter outfits for several months.
Weddings!
Over the last few months I have been working on several projects for weddings. I was lucky to design 3 Mother of the Bride/Groom dresses, a wedding dress for a Cathedral wedding and a wedding reception dress for my lovely niece and model. The last was a fairy tale wedding in Sintra Portugal which I also attended.
The large floral print silk was chosen for it’s vibrant greens for a wedding in Ireland.
Large flower print bursting with vitality, as is it’s owner - for a wedding in Bermuda - the body and weight of the fabric leant itself to a simple figure-flattering shape.
This wedding dress was a challenge to construct. The Bride was inspired by a Halston dress designed for Liza Minnelli. I love the contrast between the shimmering silver sequins and the fragile slightly irridescent silk chiffon. Luckily, Michael at B and J Fabrics was able to find the gorgeous chiffon which was super light, yet able to bear the weight of the dress.
This dress was draped on the client out of a single length of silk chiffon
The wedding of my niece was held in a fairytale castle on a perfect moonlit night in Sintra , Portugal.
Fresh Blue and White for summer!
Recently made as part of a wardrobe for client
Working with clients
I have had the pleasure to work with some wonderful people. It is, at it’s best, a collaboration between designer and client. The more I get to know the client, the more fruitful the relationship becomes. I like to make clothes that are not so trendy that they go out of style in a season. Classics that are well made and well designed can last for years! These were all made recently for one client.
Happy and Healthy 2022
wishing everyone a positive year ahead in which we stay safe but don’t forget to dream
Lucire
I am so pleased that this article by Jack Yan, published in his lavish New Zealand magazine, Lucire, has just come out after a year long delay due to covid. It covers quite a bit of my history in his perceptive interview-
Dressing for pleasure
Say goodbye to summer and it’s indolent airs , but not to the concept of dressing for pleasure. Dites Bonjour to mixing and layering prints, textures, colors or whatever you like- make dressing an adventure.
The coat is lined in silk charmeuse and has antique filigree buttons collected in Southern Germany concealing hook and eye closures that fasten the coat - shown here also before buttons were added - coat sz 12 - $750. Dress sz 14 - $375.
A cotton wax-print frock coat can be layered over pants or dresses - to stylish effect - Letters and numbers Ankara print is a traditional African pattern - lined in rayon bemberg - sz 6-8 - $650.
Nothing says VIP better than a dress that actually says vip . . Cotton wax print button front dress with semi-belt tie. sz 6-8 - $550.
We got out of the city for the first time since the Pandemic- Had a lovely weekend visit with old friends at the beach.
Back in the studio. . . .
A full cotton print skirt with a belt and dark top has been my wardrobe choice for bicycling along the Hudson River to and from my studio feeling free as a bird!
Continue to stay safe everyone and dress for pleasure! ❤️
Peonies on Silk
I recently asked longtime friend and collaborator Eve Vaterlaus to paint whatever she liked for me on two pieces of silk.. I chose a heavy weight silk charmeuse with a luxurious hand.
I knew I wanted to drape the dresses directly on the dress form and on the bias without making a pattern.
It is scary, but exhilarating to make the first cut - I ended up using almost every bit of the fabric.
The dresses modeled by my two favorite models - my nieces. . .
Out Again!
Captured at High Noon Gallery - at show of paintings by Bobbie Oliver - My Starfish dress and matching mask -
Our Mayoral primary is this Tuesday. . .
Show is up through June 27 at High Noon Gallery at 124 Forsyth St. nyc