Rites of Spring

The seasons change- at least where I am in the Northeast- and every year feels like a shedding of the old and emergence of something fresh and delicate yet strong. We’ve had a very brutal winter with snow, cold, war and killings on our own streets. Creation feels like hope and belief in the future. I have many new projects starting and I’m looking forward to meeting with my different clients and designing clothes for them to honor their individual inner strengths.

I ended the old year before our magical trip to Europe by making a white lace blouse for a very beautiful bride. The time was short or I would have loved to dress both incredible women for their wedding ceremony.

Claire and Katie Jo at their wedding at the Chelsea Hotel. Lace tunic blouse with shoulder button closure photo: Elvira Kalviste Photography

Claire and Kati Jo at their wedding at the Chelsea Hotel. Lace Tunic blouse with shoulder button closure. Pants by Schiaparelli. Photo by: Elvira Kalviste Photography

We looked at a lot of laces before finding this one at Mood that resonated with Kati Jo. She loved the leaf design and also the weight of the fabric- not too delicate.

I have saved a bag of scraps of beautiful fabrics that I hoped to use one day- leftovers from client projects. . .too nice to throw away. coming back to the studio I went through all my fabrics and made a jacket out of 2 disparate plaids. After cutting them out from an old pattern and pinning them on dress form- it really looked like they would not coalesce. I unpinned and went through all the other possible combinations in my bag. After this process didn’t yield any results I went back to the original idea and though the 2 fabrics have very different fiber content and texture, they did somehow blend beautifully.

Cotton and wool plaid composite jacket- leather buttons

First client dress of the year- Navy wool flannel with embroidered shadow box design - modified ruffle collar

on to dress that was envisioned many months ago for client- a Turquoise silk faille that the client found at B&J Fabrics- She requested that the piping match a pair of shoes that she plans to wear with the dress- Still in progress

the piping fabric is very dense and hard to make into cording. I love the rich oxblood color and the buttons that we already had are an unexpected touch for traditional cheong-san details

I looked at many traditional knots and fashioned ones that the fabric would accommodate and that also complimented the dress.

The rich burgundy color seems to be a theme- silk velvet top (out of scraps) and silk scarf

wool suit with silk blouse for client - fabric from Mendel Goldberg

embroidered and distressed denim vest and skirt - pleated silk blouse - fabrics from Mendel Goldberg

Continuing the remnant theme- dolls I made for the grandnieces at Christmas

Before going out on New Year’s Eve-

Drawing inspired by the mosaics at Borghese Palace in Rome

Thank you for visiting!! Hope to have lots more to show you as projects unfold 🙏🏻. Be creative - And use your voice and heart ❤️

the little ones are watching!

Niece Ellison and grandniece Ayla - will be 2 in June

Paris at Christmastime

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My costumes were at the Garnier Paris Opera for all of December in a piece called “O Zlozony O Composite” choreographed by Trisha Brown. We had created the work in 2004 working as a team of 5 women both at the Garnier and in New York at Trisha’s studio. The piece was set on 3 of the POB Etoiles and it was a thrill to work with them as well as see it again in Paris. Choreography: Trisha Brown Music: Laurie Anderson Sets: Vija Celmins Lighting: Jennifer Tipton Costumes: Elizabeth Cannon

Aureli Dupont at 1st fitting at Trisha’s studio circa 2003

Initial sketches for the costumes and postage stamp of early football player which inspired the lacing

My initial idea for the costumes came from fencing. I wanted to give the dancer’s bodies more protection so I created quilted padded corsets out of cotton padding and muslin. One of the initial cast of dancers had injured their arm and asked for an arm protector. Soon all 3 dancers wanted one. There were 2 skirts for the female dancer- a longer and a shorter version for the sections where a longer skirt could interfere with the movement. In contrast to the top the silk organza skirt was very fragile-

Dancer at rehearsal in Garnier from the 1st production in 2004.

Aurelie Dupont who later became the head of Ballet at the Paris Opera dancing in O Composite circa 2004

I was happy to see the design of the costumes hadn’t changed at all from my originals.

The entance of Garnier designed under Napoleon 111 by Charles Garnier in 1875

me on the Opera staircase After the performance

The poster for the program

The Dancers taking their bows

I got the chance to remake the costumes for the Pa Ballet in 2016 - It was wonderful to see that Liliann is now dancing with the POB and performed again in O Composite.

Lillian Di Piazza Coste at fitting in Philadelphia in 2016

Marc Chagall’s beautiful ceiling at the Opera painted in 1964

We did many other wonderful things in Paris in the week we were there- Lots of museums, visits with old friends and lots of great food.

Bespoke never goes out of style

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I’ve collected a few photos of friends and clients who have visited my studio in the last month- they are wearing items from my stock - some going back 25 years! Some made during the pandemic and others more recent.

Collage of Joanne Gair wearing a mixed print dress made during Covid isolation with very generous pockets!

Joanne in a dress made for her - a copy of the dress I was wearing at my sale. These prints are limited so I mixed it with a coordinating seashell pattern.

I call this wax print my “Poppy Dress” named after Claie McCardell’s “Popover Dress” so called because it was so easy for many different people to wear.

This is Claire McCardell’s dress from the Met Museum by way of this vintage blog 👈

Obviously my dress looks nothing like the Mccardell, but shares it’s ease and versatility- I have made dozens of versions over the years and it is very adaptable to different body types.

blue velvet dress looks like it was made for her but Laurie walked in and spotted it hanging in my studio.. The only alteration we are doing is changing the straps-

with new straps before the final fitting

How adorable is Laurie in the silk Taffeta dress that I made at least 25 years ago with fabric I bought in Paris in the last century!.

Here is Anushka wearing it in 2009

Anushka this week in a cotton knit draped dress made in 2022?

This dress made from leftovers of 2 clients outfits - one of my “scrap dresses” begun a year ago but finished this Spring

The jacket (2013?) from which leftover scraps became the ruffle for the dress above. Luckily I still had the dress when this jacket was returned to me last month (after 12 years) for a slight alteration and I needed more of the fabric which I “borrowed” from the hem. the buttons are a new addition.

Trying on clothes at my sale- beautiful Sallie -

SUPERFINE

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Concurrent and perhaps a little influenced by the beautiful and well-researched show - Superfine - Tailoring Black style on view at the Met Museum through October 26, my client and I created an ensemble for her to wear this Fall and also on a garden-viewing trip to the south of France.

cotton print Duster coat lined with Bugatchi cotton shirting over matching cotton shirt and Houndstooth linen pants. The duster sleeve has a slit with a snap to provide options and ease for wearing .

The 4 piece outfit started with 2 unrelated purchases- a cotton block - printed voile she got in India and a check elastic trim purchased years before at East Coast Trimmng in NYC. The Duster and pants fabric come from B&J Fabrics in NYC. The Shirt fabric is from Eliott Berman Textiles .

India cotton block print dress with elastic trim

The single flowering plant is known as Buti and symbolizes a beautiful field of flowers when grouped as a pattern..

We loved the way the patterns interacted and played with one another

🔆

Superfine, the show at the Met, offers a fascinating history of the evolution of the Black Dandy. What began as a way for wealthy slave owners in europe and England in the 18th C to show off their slaves by dressing them in elaborate finery became a symbol of protest and independance for the black individual.

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Transitioning into Fall with wax prints and vivid colors

wax-print top with back zip and pockets and skirt with side slits.

wax print top over 4 panel raw silk skirt

silk chiffon Anna Sui print tie blouse with snap closure over raw silk skirt

silk & wool jacket over chiffon tie blouse and raw silk skirt

wax print dress for client

Thank you for taking the time to visit! Please come again soon

Some dresses I made for my nieces when they were young

❤️

Mother of the Groom

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Of course you want to look beautiful for your son’s wedding. I made 2 MOG dresses this summer for weddings in late August and October. For one of the weddings the bride requested that the guests all wear black. This was a bit daunting for my client, but because a bit of color was allowed , she loved this silk cloqué with fushia flowers that I had in my atelier. We had worked together before and the process was joyful and seamless.

one shoulder silk cloqué

She also wanted an optional cover-up. I wasn’t happy with the colors of silk organza available so I painted a piece of silk.

Hand-painted organze wrap

I wasn’t sure it would work until I happened upon these Cy Twombly paintings literally the next day!

Cy Twombley paintings at A Rose Is show at Flagg Art nyc

Trying on shoes to go with the dress

The wedding!

Lucy at the wedding in August

Lucy and Robert Reitzfeld -Artists extraordiaire -escorting their son down the aisle

A second wedding

which will take place in October

After a bit of back and forth the client found this cut silk velvet with a Venetian feeling that she loved. I met her at a store I had not been familiar with, though it has existed on the lower east side since 1890!

They cater to a high end clientele which includes Michele Obama and Madame Frick for the recent reopening of the Frick museum. All their fabrics are imported from Italy and France.

possible Buttons

2 pc skirt and softly tailored jacket, lined in silk chifon and crepe de chine

celebrated my birthday late August with my husband and beloved nieces

🌻❤️🌻

As always- Thank you for visiting!

More Octopus ❣️

My friend Anushka Paris Carter who wore the Jumeliere dress in below post was gracious enough to model the Octopus dress in my studio. She is the co-writer and director/producer of the play “Uncommon Sense” and is working on a new project now. The fabric, as noted below, was hand-painted by artist Eve Vaterlaus, with whom I have had an on-going collaboration since the 1980’s. We have created many hand-painted dresses together over the years.

The Tao of the Drape

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Fabrics always have the upper hand. Color and pattern predominate. Each fabric has an individual nature and I like to observe it before cutting. What does it want to become?

I gave this length of pink 4-ply silk to my friend and collaborator Eve Vaterlaus. She came up with the idea to paint an Ocropus which was quite challenging both to paint and also to fashion into a dress.

As is usually the case with hand-painted fabric I drape it right on the form rather than make a pattern first.

I used a fleshy silk georgette as the lining and underskirt after much back and forth over what to choose. It was serendipitous that the tentacle lined up between the upper back bodice and skirt section.

We first pictured the Octopus eye at the top of the fabric, but it seemed to belong in the side front swirl of the skirt.

The blue background fabric was painted by my dear friend Michel Bergonne who passed away last April in Paris.

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In August 2001 we spent my 50th birthday in a castle in France with my dear Viennese friend Marieli Fröhlich and her immediate family and friends. I did the hand beading and sequinning on this net dress which was to be included in an upcoming solo gallery show.

In June of this year my friend actor and playright Anushka Paris Carter who I hadn’t heard from in many years, wrote me to ask if her daughter could wear the Jumeliere dress to her prom. I said Yes, absolutely! and we arranged a visit.

Zoe had seen pictures of her Mom wearing the dress at the Tony’s and also the Emmy Awards and had long fantasized about wearing it herself.

Anushka Paris Carter and husband Andy Paris who was nominated as one of the writers of The Laramie Project

Ballet Dancer Zoe Paris Carter on the night of her high school prom wearing the Jumeliere Dress

I am working on mother of the groom dress for an August wedding. The client wanted a shawl to go over the dress. I hand painted a piece of silk organza and was very unsure about it - until I saw a Cy Twombly painting of roses at the Flagg art Foundation in a show called A Rose Is.

silk cloqué organza with hand-painted silk organza shawl

Cy Twombly Roses at the Flagg Art Foundation

Silk Organza shawl draped

Client trying on shoes to go with mother of the groom dress

I have had this blue linen check fabric in a client’s stash for several years. I didn’t really know what to do with it as it seemed rather dull until I placed the fabric on the bias- I also lined the sleeves and hem with a burnt red linen that matched the stripe.

Blue and red check linen dress

The interfaced linen band at hem gave the dress some body without which it seems rather limp.

linen herringbone suit with white cotton trim and zip jacket

Liberty cotton dress for 1 yr old grand niece Ayla

back of Aylas dress with adjustable bow

3 yr old Charlotte in Greece wearing her birthday dress

Thank you for visiting! Let’s try and keep the world safe and beautiful and free for the children❤️

Spring Blooms

It’s an abundant season in New York this Spring. The flowers are at their peak and there are fantastic art exhibits all over.

Indian Block prink cotton dress with bows

2 of the Grandnieces had birthdays in April which occaisoned new dresses.

There were clothes for grown-ups too like this moss cashmere day dress and brown wool plaid jacket with orange corduroy pants.

Vlisco wine bottle print shirt for client who owns a vineyard

checking the drape of dress for mother-of-the groom - silk cloqué organza

Dragonfly print cotton dress

Blouse made from silk crepe de chine hand-painted by Thomas Trosch

Mary Heilmann at the opening of her show at 303 Gallery

wearing silk blouse hand-painted by Thomas Trosch

Family gathering for grand nieces birthday party - Charlotte-3 yrs (taking a nap) and Eliza 1 yr on couch at right

I will be having a sale soon, so please check back for details - Happy Spring and Thank you for visiting❣️🌸👗

Love is in the Air

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The weather is dismal, news unrelenting, flus and colds persist . .and yet. . .

wax print Pierrot dress sz 4-6

As you can probably tell if you’ve looked at my website or blog, I love working with patterns. When a client brought a scarf back from Indonesia with the request that it inspire an outfit, we were off and running.

I gave the scarf to my collaborator, artist Eve Vaterlaus, to come up with some ideas. After some back and forth she painted a motif of roses and apples that the client loved.

Hand-painted cotton blouse with cotton piping and etched bone buttons - cotton, wool and silk skirt

Client likes a coordinated vest for the warm weather in Indonesia rather than a jacket

we designed the blouse in an Asian style to better show off the fabric print and I went against sartorial rules for a women’s garment and fastened the blouse from left to right for the same reason..

The piped edges and facing gave a weight to the garment - I love the minimal back

Still loving and having fun with the wax prints and my new dress form from Andy’s dress forms that fits me perfectly! I now want all the sizes from Andy’s!! They are made by hand in NYC

A Happy Belated Valentines Day to All❣️

Flowers from my darling husband❤️

Gala Dressing

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A week before the 2024 election it is safe to say we are suspended in time- holding our breath, or perhaps working like crazy on behalf of our candidate. Personally I say VOTE - VOTE BLUE - and elect Kamala Harris!

n the occasion of the 200th anniversary of the Marquis de Lafayette’s visit to George Washington’s home Mt. Vernon- I created this blue ensemble for a very valued client.

silk Matelesé dress and jacket

Jacket with “faux bow” attaches with inside coat hook

Client’s own heirloom pin on moiré ribbon

Jacket and dress cuffs lined in ochre moiré - Bolero follows line of seam in dress

Occasionally a client will find a dress that has been in my studio for a few years and it is love at first sight- with a few revisions the perfect outfit for an upcoming Gala

Silk satin stripe organza gown with beaded detail

back of dress with lace inset

back with lace detail

A visiter to my website wanted an outfit recreated for a nephew’s lavish wedding in Rome. I was able to find the same corded Alençon lace at Gelmore Lace. The swarvoski crystal Buttons are from M & J Trimming- saddly due to close at the end of this year.

Silk chiffon blouse w/ swarvski buttons and sleeve bows - Alençon lace skirt lined in crepe back silk satin

Navy silk chiffon blouse

New addition to the family- grand neice Ayla - daughter of neice Ellie and wife Shy with Ellie in matching couture- never too young❣️

Ellie and Ayla in matching cotton wax print dresses - fabric from Eliebea

stay sane and dont forget to dress up and Vote ! Thank you for visiting ❣️

Lace Calme Et Volupté

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This summer I had several projects which involved lace. A young client wanted a top for a skirt she had bought for a “cottage core” wedding. The wedding was to be held at Babbington House in England. I found the perfect lace at Gelmor Lace - a family owned company dealing exclusively with authentic french lace for 3 generations. They also had the lace trim which I used to finish the neckline and sleeve edges.

french alençon lace with half bralette in silk charmeuse

The bride wanted to incorporate elements from her mother and grandmother’s wedding dresses. The buttons on the back of the top were from her grandmother’s dress. I used eyelet trim from her mother’’s dress to finish the seams on the inside of the top.

back - lace wedding top with satin-covered buttons 

A client came who was to be a guest at her nephew’s lavish wedding in Rome. She wanted me to replicate an outfit from my website. It was from a trunk show 10 years ago which proves that classic design never goes out of style!

Blouse - Silk chiffon with lycra.  crystal buttons - skirt - Aleçon lace with silk crepe-back satin lining in blush

A very dear and loyal client needed a dress for her daughter’s wedding. (I had made her maternity clothes when she had been pregnant!) She wanted to wear a dress she had gotten from one of my sales a few years back which needed some alteration.s. She also needed a jacket to go with it.. The very talented Michael at B&J Fabrics found the flower motif chiffon-embellished net to which I added the blue details to further coordinate the 2 elements.

Silk shantung puff skirt dress with Navy embroidered design -   silk chiffon on net bolero jacket

back view -  silk shantung dress with net and silk jacket

front - silk shantung strapless dress with flower appliqué and silk ric-rac trim

A client who was made princess of 2 Indonesian islands receives many gift from the royal family of fabric and clothing manufactured in their country. It is expected on her return that she will be wearing them incorporated into her wardrobe. I made this lilac ensemble to go with an embroidered vest of a material akin to plastic. (in picture below)

Irredescent cotton voile shirt using fabric selfvage at center front and unraveled edges as decorative elements.  Gimp trim was also applied.  skirt is a vibrant cotton.  Fabrics from B&J.

Detail of cotton voile irridescent cotton blouse.

client wearing the outfit in Indonesia 

Fabric brought back from India by client- Indigo-dyed cotton paisley

Cotton Vlisco fabric brought to me by a client for a dress she wore at the Gordon Parks Foundation Gala. When I held the fabric up and draped it on her she said she wanted a dress with that exact look of casual draping.

Cotton wax print Vlisco fabric- printed in Holland 

Wax print dress from studio - now in client collection - I found the same floral motif in a tablecloth my husband’s mother made in the 60’s

Vlisco wax print dress with pockets in traditional pattern

in client's collection - vlisco print of hand holding flowers - I found the pattern more appealing and less obvious when placed upside down and at an angle on the body.

vlisco wax print cotton one shoulder dress - hands holding a bunch of flowers

Vlisco wax print skirt with designer's own blouse - japanese cotton with selvage detail- after Matisse-

moving into early fall- a 2-tone denim jacket with antique Austrian buttons over a linen dress-in-progress for client - jacket also has coordinating brown denim trousers.

Cotton denim jacket with zip front  - linen dress with front buttons

The summer went by fast! Lots of work and also new grand nieces, visits with friends and family and lots of bike rides

Thanks for stopping by - Remember to Dress for pleasure❣️

Flowers of Spring

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I can’t help but be inspired by the growth and renewal all around us- even as the world feels uncertain and brutal in so many ways, Spring has always been a symbol of hope and new life-

Fil Coupé silk organza blouse w/ flowers and butterflies

Silk tweed skirt and vest with gold trim and Oscar (de La Renta) buttons

detail

I looked everywhere for the buttons to tie this outfit together and finally found these perfect cloisonné ones at Mood. The silk organza blouse fabric is from B&J fabrics. Tweed was brought to me by client

Found this incredible cotton print a few years ago at Beckenstein Fabrics and not sure what we would do with it. .

Elephants on orange clouds among multi-colored plaid and decorative motifs

The idea coalesced when we looked at this Kantha print- also bought a few years ago during Covid- and decided the two were meant for each other!

Short Kantha cotton quilted jacket over Elephant print dress.

Mother of the Groom - wedding in Germany

Cotton print dress with silk and wool coat

Around town

Joan Jonas at Moma

My costumes at the Joyce

Central Park Conservancy Garden in April

New Grandniece - Elizabeth - born in April

Another Grandniece on the way!

Riding through Central Park

Thank you so much for visiting! Please stay safe and be kind ❤️

Making a Couture wardrobe

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Couture means having your clothes tailored just for you- to your taste, fit and needs. A chic pair of PJ’s for walking the dog? Why not!

Blue cotton flannel with indigo cotton trim Printed in Japan

“Beaton” wool houndstooth tweed fabric made in London from Dashing Tweeds with shell buttons

wool Loden jacket with cashmere details and horn buttons - not shown- matching cashmere pants

Wool Plaid dress with frog details

cashmire suit and silk cravat blouse with client-provided materials

Archipelago

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I came upon these notes I wrote 13 years ago and also the photos that accompany them which popped up as a memory on Facebook. It turns out that I also met the artist, Jerelyn Hanrahan, who created the Pearl sculpture through Facebook quite a few years after taking these pictures.

Alaina Ferris modeling in front of Jereyln Hanrahan’s pearl sculpture

Archipelago

Black silk with large ecru polka- dots. Saw fabric in Dec and kept swatch; romancing it, lusting after it- afraid of it. Polka-dots- such a polarizing statement. very loaded iconography. Spanish roots? Society women wouldn’t be caught dead in a large polka-dot dress. Gilles from Paris (James Lord’s companion and adopted son) declaring them to be gauche- only hookers would wear them. An irredeemably clownish aspect- Flamenco flamboyance, so seductive and dangerous, yet verging on the silly and laughable. July 6- could not resist. Having sketched a design for Paris trunk show- bought 3 yards. Fantasized about buying 6 more perhaps. . .to have enough. Immediately deçu! Not right- too regular, vulgar- no one would be caught dead in it! Left the roll of fabric sitting in a corner for 2 days- glancing at it, only unfurling it once part way to ascertain the hand of it. doubts about skirt- needs to be on the bias, broken up a bit- given more life. July 8 - Unfurl it. Quickly decide to cut off one length - 44”, not realizng I am making a square. cut the 2nd 44” and have 12”left over. Good. Begin draping a skirt. Not on bias, but with a sarong-like fold in front. Move it to the bust on dress form. Loving it! loving the way the folds fall over the bust- tuck the excess over and sew into place before I don’t lose it. Impossible to replicate! Begin in back- try the same thing- pin - try on - lose pins - pin on straps - keep losing it. Decide to take in fullness in top back. Yes! It is working. . . try on many times - pinning, re-pinning, testing. It works! Fabric feels luscious- Billows, moves like a sail with a breeze.

Tweeds, cowls and dancers

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This year has started with lots of work. - outfits for clients’ events near and far - new African fabrics from Vlisco waiting to be cut and some new dance costumes for a piece I designed in 2019.

Trisha Brown dancers in “Working Title” photographed on French tour by Delphine Perrin

There were some new dancers in the company since I made the original costumes- The dancer on the left is the 4th one to wear this costume with a bit of tweaking. The middle costume is entirely new and the fushia orchid pants are a new addition. I didn’t use any stretch in the fabics (all cotton & silk) The pants must accomodate a wide range of movement and stand up to many wearings and washings! The first thing the dancers do when trying on the pants is a deep plié. I am always so relieved when they perform well.

Coming to the Joyce Theater NYC March 26 - 31

I was contacted by someone from my website who wanted to give a gift certificate to his sister. It took about a year for her to contact me, but when we met she ordered a dress and chose fabric of which I had a small piece in my studio. The fabric was a block print from India, I didn’t remember the vendor. After a google image search I was able to find someone in India who printed the exact pattern for me. She was very happy with the dress and buttons that I found . her brother also bought her a mohair coat from my studio as a second gift .

Both of these tweeds were brought to me by the client. I had the double sided silk satin from Paris which matched beautifully. The velvet trims tied it together and the raw edged ruffled collar was the finishing touch!

multi -tweed jacket over silk satin dress

The fabric in this dress actually has strands of tartan cloth woven into it,

Wool tweed with generous pockets and self fringe detail on sleeves

tartan strips woven into fabric

These blue silk fabrics were brought to me by a different client . She had a niece’s bat mitzvah in February. I made her a dress and coat of a fairly simple shape which let the fabrics speak

Ice blue silk and wool sheath dress with cowl neckline

Silk brocade rhinestone embellished fabric in coat over silk & wool cowl dress

35 yards of wax- printed cotton to inspire and play with all washed and waiting. . .

Thank you for visiting! Please check back soon❤️

Dressing Up for the New Year

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It’s been a harrowing and unsettling time for many and the future feels uncertain. It is good to connect in person and perhaps indulge in some sartorial fun. My winter sale was the setting for much good cheer and an oasis from the outside world.

Artists Mary Jones in Silk Satin stripe organza dress and Jill Levine in Silk cheongsan dress with flower embellishment.

Caroline wearing silk velvet “Confetti Dress” from 1995 show with Mary Heilmann “Crimson and Clover”

Laurie Eustis Taffetta Coral dress

Joelle Reilly in Wax print skirt with silk paint splatter sash

Mary Jones shopping the rack

Joanne Gair in Fallen Tree dress

The Twi proverb written on this dress says ‘Dua Kur Gye Enum A Obu” which means “A Tree Alone Cannot stand the Wind”

Wishing everyone a Healthy Peacfull and love-filled New Year❣️