inspiration

Archipelago

I came upon these notes I wrote 13 years ago and also the photos that accompany them which popped up as a memory on Facebook. It turns out that I also met the artist, Jerelyn Hanrahan, who created the Pearl sculpture through Facebook quite a few years after taking these pictures.

Alaina Ferris modeling in front of Jereyln Hanrahan’s pearl sculpture

Archipelago

Black silk with large ecru polka- dots. Saw fabric in Dec and kept swatch; romancing it, lusting after it- afraid of it. Polka-dots- such a polarizing statement. very loaded iconography. Spanish roots? Society women wouldn’t be caught dead in a large polka-dot dress. Gilles from Paris (James Lord’s companion and adopted son) declaring them to be gauche- only hookers would wear them. An irredeemably clownish aspect- Flamenco flamboyance, so seductive and dangerous, yet verging on the silly and laughable. July 6- could not resist. Having sketched a design for Paris trunk show- bought 3 yards. Fantasized about buying 6 more perhaps. . .to have enough. Immediately deçu! Not right- too regular, vulgar- no one would be caught dead in it! Left the roll of fabric sitting in a corner for 2 days- glancing at it, only unfurling it once part way to ascertain the hand of it. doubts about skirt- needs to be on the bias, broken up a bit- given more life. July 8 - Unfurl it. Quickly decide to cut off one length - 44”, not realizng I am making a square. cut the 2nd 44” and have 12”left over. Good. Begin draping a skirt. Not on bias, but with a sarong-like fold in front. Move it to the bust on dress form. Loving it! loving the way the folds fall over the bust- tuck the excess over and sew into place before I don’t lose it. Impossible to replicate! Begin in back- try the same thing- pin - try on - lose pins - pin on straps - keep losing it. Decide to take in fullness in top back. Yes! It is working. . . try on many times - pinning, re-pinning, testing. It works! Fabric feels luscious- Billows, moves like a sail with a breeze.

Tweeds, cowls and dancers

This year has started with lots of work. - outfits for clients’ events near and far - new African fabrics from Vlisco waiting to be cut and some new dance costumes for a piece I designed in 2019.

Trisha Brown dancers in “Working Title” photographed on French tour by Delphine Perrin

There were some new dancers in the company since I made the original costumes- The dancer on the left is the 4th one to wear this costume with a bit of tweaking. The middle costume is entirely new and the fushia orchid pants are a new addition. I didn’t use any stretch in the fabics (all cotton & silk) The pants must accomodate a wide range of movement and stand up to many wearings and washings! The first thing the dancers do when trying on the pants is a deep plié. I am always so relieved when they perform well.

Coming to the Joyce Theater NYC March 26 - 31

I was contacted by someone from my website who wanted to give a gift certificate to his sister. It took about a year for her to contact me, but when we met she ordered a dress and chose fabric of which I had a small piece in my studio. The fabric was a block print from India, I didn’t remember the vendor. After a google image search I was able to find someone in India who printed the exact pattern for me. She was very happy with the dress and buttons that I found . her brother also bought her a mohair coat from my studio as a second gift .

Both of these tweeds were brought to me by the client. I had the double sided silk satin from Paris which matched beautifully. The velvet trims tied it together and the raw edged ruffled collar was the finishing touch!

multi -tweed jacket over silk satin dress

The fabric in this dress actually has strands of tartan cloth woven into it,

Wool tweed with generous pockets and self fringe detail on sleeves

tartan strips woven into fabric

These blue silk fabrics were brought to me by a different client . She had a niece’s bat mitzvah in February. I made her a dress and coat of a fairly simple shape which let the fabrics speak

Ice blue silk and wool sheath dress with cowl neckline

Silk brocade rhinestone embellished fabric in coat over silk & wool cowl dress

35 yards of wax- printed cotton to inspire and play with all washed and waiting. . .

Thank you for visiting! Please check back soon❤️

Almost Summer

It was a busy and productive couple of months. I always love this time of year and especially this year, with covid numbers declining and some activity returning. I was encouraged that people bought lots of dresses at my Spring Sale, which indicates that they see a future in dressing up and going out again.

Sophie in Peacock blue silk draped gown                 photo: Liz Hafter

Sophie in Peacock blue silk draped gown photo: Liz Hafter

I made this dress in 2005 originally as a costume for Trisha Brown to wear in a duet in Lyon, France. We decided on something simpler and I then sold it to a dear client. Some years later this client recommended me to Sophie and her Mom, one of her best friends, to design a Bat mitzvah dress. Now- Sophie is graduating from high school and the friend leant her the gown to wear to her prom. She chose to wear Doc Martins as footwear, (not pictured) which I love!

SALE was the entire month of may, by appointment, at my atelier

The city was gorgeous and provided much inspiration!

I went to the first art shows I had seen in 15 months- Lee Krasner collages at Paul Kasmin Gallery and Terry Winters Paintings and drawings at Matthew Marks Gallery

Wax Print Swatch dress - working outside-in

This is the first dress I made (this time around) which began my fascination, or re-infatuation, with African wax-print fabrics. I first encountered these fabrics in Paris sometime in the 1980’s in one of the fabric shops at the base of Sacrè -Cœur. I hadn’t really thought about them for a while, when a few years ago I was given a salesmans’ swatch book from AK Fabrics, one of my favorite fabric stores. This was comprised of square pieces of various sizes. One day I decided to open it up and I just began to pin each one onto a dress form in the order that they came in. It was entirely serendipitous, and became the dress you see here. Each side is so different, I wanted to show them all and the pieced-together patchwork, born of necessity. Underneath it all I added a structure of a cotton dress with boned bodice and horsehair hem skirt. Though this dress has been sold, you can view other dresses for sale here.

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Colorful Couture Fall

The Chelsea Galleries are full of color and inspiration this month. I only have to leave my studio and walk a few steps to enter whole other worlds .

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Nicolas Party has transformed the Flag Art Foundation into a stage set for pastel works by various artists including Degas and Mary Cassatt. His Rococo- inspired murals cover whole rooms in the lavishly colored 2 floor space.

Pastel wall painting by Nicolas Party with painting by Edgar degas

Pastel wall painting by Nicolas Party with painting by Edgar degas

pearl silk and wool suit w/ cloisonné buttons

pearl silk and wool suit w/ cloisonné buttons

green silk jersey, wool Pierre Cardin -inspired Mom’s bat mitzvah dress, black chiffon, japanese cotton ikat dresses, white silk and wool jacket over silk shantung - chantilly lace overlay skirt

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Elisabeth Kley has teamed up with Tabboo! to create an enchanting environment of wall-painting and ceramic fountains at the Gordon Robichaux Gallery in Union Square reminiscent of a Roman Courtyard.

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Verdant Green silk Jersey top with African cotton wax print skirt

Verdant Green silk Jersey top with African cotton wax print skirt

Black English wool jacket with flower and lace adorned silk shantung skirt

Black English wool jacket with flower and lace adorned silk shantung skirt

Karen Kilimnik’s French-inspired small paintings and sculptures at 303 Gallery

Karen Kilimnik’s French-inspired small paintings and sculptures at 303 Gallery

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Indian Kantha quilt made into a Frock coat

Indian Kantha quilt made into a Frock coat

Draped cotton wax -print dress

Draped cotton wax -print dress

Philip Taaffe at Luhring augustine Gallery

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Japanese Cotton double-sided coat and dress ensemble made for client

Full Moon Friday the 13

It’s that time of year when the weather turns chilly- One day it’s summer and the next day is sweater weather. What to wear? It’s been a busy summer with lots of client work and some projects involving antique dresses. I’ve been making under slips for centuries old dresses so they can be brought back to life. My new ideas are still floating around my head waiting to be brought to life. Here is a glimpse back on what I have been doing . . .

Looking back on Summer

It was such a busy summer I haven’t really had time to post, so I am just now transitioning into Fall and wrapping up some projects from the months before.

June was wedding month and I made the wedding dress for my beloved niece (and model!)

The wedding was in Cooperstown New York with a beautiful lake as backdrop on a gorgeous late Spring afternoon. Of course everyone danced and celebrated well into the night.

We worked on the dress for a whole year which was a fabulous luxury.

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detail of French Lace (sequined beadwork) on wedding dress

detail of French Lace (sequined beadwork) on wedding dress

Trunk show in May

My trunk show, given by 2 of my dear clients and friends was a big success and a lot of fun.

2 of my new cardigans in ponté knit with appliqués modeled by the 2 hosts

2 of my new cardigans in ponté knit with appliqués modeled by the 2 hosts

Yves Klein blue silk and wool suit

Yves Klein blue silk and wool suit

African Dutch wax-print dress with kimono sleeve

African Dutch wax-print dress with kimono sleeve

New Dance Costumes!!

I was invited to design new costumes for an older Trisha Brown work called “Working Title”. With very little time I used as my starting point fabrics I had already in the studio. After receiving a green light from the 2 artistic directors of the company I felt free to compose the costumes by instinct using as reference everything I learned from working with Trisha and her style of movement and playful spirit.

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At rehearsal

At rehearsal

An Antique Dress

I was asked to work on a dress and revive it as much as possible for inclusion in the beautiful upcoming catalog of Cora Ginsburg

Cora Ginsburg where I worked restoring a dress from the 1800’s

Cora Ginsburg where I worked restoring a dress from the 1800’s

The dress I was asked to restore was a “Fancy dress” most likely worn for a Ball at a private house in England in the 1820’s

I replaced underskirt with tea-dyed silk tafetta, repaired torn net overskirt with silk crepeline and added original silk band to underskirt

I replaced underskirt with tea-dyed silk tafetta, repaired torn net overskirt with silk crepeline and added original silk band to underskirt

Detail of bow on 1820’s dress

Detail of bow on 1820’s dress

In Memoriam

My beloved Father passed away just 10 days after we celebrated his 97 birthday in August. He was able to attend the wedding of his granddaughter and reunite with his 93 year old brother who he hadn’t seen in 20 years. He was my biggest inspiration and fan. A man of boundless heart and imagination. His brother, my uncle passed away just 2 weeks later. we Miss them.



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Spending time with flowers

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I have been forever inspired by flowers.  As soon as Spring arrives, who cannot but be enthralled by the exquisite bursts of color that emerge from the monochrome months that proceeded it.  Each season has it's colors, it's fragrances and it's graceful forms.  If I could imitate, in one dress, the nonchalant grace that blooms so  profusely everywhere,  I would be ecstatic. Perhaps it is also their ephemeral nature that makes them so appealing.  Impossible to save or capture, like time itself. . .but there to enjoy, to savor and be inspired by.

 

My mother used to grow Zinnias in her garden every summer.  I had thought of them as country flowers and it has only been in the last few years, as I have seen them at the Farmer's Markets, that I considered trying to grow them myself in our window boxes.  This year I decided to grow them from seeds, so it has been doubly rewarding to see them come into flower and thrive.  They are not fussy- don't mind the scorching sun and are an endless source of happiness.