couture dressmaking
Couture means having your clothes tailored just for you- to your taste, fit and needs. A chic pair of PJ’s for walking the dog? Why not!
Blue cotton flannel with indigo cotton trim Printed in Japan
“Beaton” wool houndstooth tweed fabric made in London from Dashing Tweeds with shell buttons
wool Loden jacket with cashmere details and horn buttons - not shown- matching cashmere pants
Wool Plaid dress with frog details
cashmire suit and silk cravat blouse with client-provided materials
I came upon these notes I wrote 13 years ago and also the photos that accompany them which popped up as a memory on Facebook. It turns out that I also met the artist, Jerelyn Hanrahan, who created the Pearl sculpture through Facebook quite a few years after taking these pictures.
Alaina Ferris modeling in front of Jereyln Hanrahan’s pearl sculpture
Archipelago
Black silk with large ecru polka- dots. Saw fabric in Dec and kept swatch; romancing it, lusting after it- afraid of it. Polka-dots- such a polarizing statement. very loaded iconography. Spanish roots? Society women wouldn’t be caught dead in a large polka-dot dress. Gilles from Paris (James Lord’s companion and adopted son) declaring them to be gauche- only hookers would wear them. An irredeemably clownish aspect- Flamenco flamboyance, so seductive and dangerous, yet verging on the silly and laughable. July 6- could not resist. Having sketched a design for Paris trunk show- bought 3 yards. Fantasized about buying 6 more perhaps. . .to have enough. Immediately deçu! Not right- too regular, vulgar- no one would be caught dead in it! Left the roll of fabric sitting in a corner for 2 days- glancing at it, only unfurling it once part way to ascertain the hand of it. doubts about skirt- needs to be on the bias, broken up a bit- given more life. July 8 - Unfurl it. Quickly decide to cut off one length - 44”, not realizng I am making a square. cut the 2nd 44” and have 12”left over. Good. Begin draping a skirt. Not on bias, but with a sarong-like fold in front. Move it to the bust on dress form. Loving it! loving the way the folds fall over the bust- tuck the excess over and sew into place before I don’t lose it. Impossible to replicate! Begin in back- try the same thing- pin - try on - lose pins - pin on straps - keep losing it. Decide to take in fullness in top back. Yes! It is working. . . try on many times - pinning, re-pinning, testing. It works! Fabric feels luscious- Billows, moves like a sail with a breeze.
It’s been a harrowing and unsettling time for many and the future feels uncertain. It is good to connect in person and perhaps indulge in some sartorial fun. My winter sale was the setting for much good cheer and an oasis from the outside world.
Artists Mary Jones in Silk Satin stripe organza dress and Jill Levine in Silk cheongsan dress with flower embellishment.
Caroline wearing silk velvet “Confetti Dress” from 1995 show with Mary Heilmann “Crimson and Clover”
Laurie Eustis Taffetta Coral dress
Joelle Reilly in Wax print skirt with silk paint splatter sash
Mary Jones shopping the rack
Joanne Gair in Fallen Tree dress
The Twi proverb written on this dress says ‘Dua Kur Gye Enum A Obu” which means “A Tree Alone Cannot stand the Wind”
Wishing everyone a Healthy Peacfull and love-filled New Year❣️
On a hot sultry day one wants something light and airy. Perhaps a dress of floral printed silk chiffon. This pattern reminds me of Monet’s garden., Giverny. Paired with a linen burlap -textured jacket it becomes an outfit for meetings, traveling or n’importe quoi. The blue velvet dress, on the other hand, one can dream about wearing to a winter fête or a dinner by candlelight in the chilly months.
silk chiffon dress with snaps down front and double tie sash. worn with emerald silk slip
silk chiffon dress worn with camel color linen jacket lined in silk charmeuse
blue velvet dress with boned bodice and diamanté straps- low back and floor length skirt - lined in silk
model: Ellison Mellor
I’ve been working on outfits for clients near and far - here is a peak into my studio these first months of 2023 -
a spectacular textured silk and wool from Italy with Fleur de Lys 3-D embellishments -
I made a rosette pin as an embellishment
The complete outfit for an ambassador dinner with Ottoman coat and 4-ply silk splatter lining and scarf
Iridescent silk dress in a color I call Absynthe with puckered details borrowed from the V& A antique costume collection
Tweed jacket with gold trim, silk chiffon blouse and corduroy skirt
Surprise pink silk lining
Lightweight wool challis brought to me by client
blue wool and mohair coat with fabric given to me by above client
Continuing the blue theme- a blue velvet dress I made as a sample
Dark Navy cashmere coat with appliques made for fun as sample - inspiration taken from dear friends I’ve lost and hold near me
This summery chiffon dress came to visit for a touch-up
Anticipating Spring! Fun was had at my Winter sale
Love and good health to all! Keep your heart open
My littlest client and grandniece in her polka-dot Christmas dress with chiffon collar
Recently made as part of a wardrobe for client
Embroidered Cotton/ Poly Duster coat with bias edging over white cotton pants and cotton stripe fil coupé shirt with knot buttons
cuff detail
generous side patch pockets
Say goodbye to summer and it’s indolent airs , but not to the concept of dressing for pleasure. Dites Bonjour to mixing and layering prints, textures, colors or whatever you like- make dressing an adventure.
Orange Lampas Brocade coat over cotton print dress
The coat is lined in silk charmeuse and has antique filigree buttons collected in Southern Germany concealing hook and eye closures that fasten the coat - shown here also before buttons were added - coat sz 12 - $750. Dress sz 14 - $375.
A cotton wax-print frock coat can be layered over pants or dresses - to stylish effect - Letters and numbers Ankara print is a traditional African pattern - lined in rayon bemberg - sz 6-8 - $650.
Nothing says VIP better than a dress that actually says vip . . Cotton wax print button front dress with semi-belt tie. sz 6-8 - $550.
We got out of the city for the first time since the Pandemic- Had a lovely weekend visit with old friends at the beach.
Back in the studio. . . .
A full cotton print skirt with a belt and dark top has been my wardrobe choice for bicycling along the Hudson River to and from my studio feeling free as a bird!
Continue to stay safe everyone and dress for pleasure! ❤️
detail of Peony - painted by Eve Vaterlaus
I recently asked longtime friend and collaborator Eve Vaterlaus to paint whatever she liked for me on two pieces of silk.. I chose a heavy weight silk charmeuse with a luxurious hand.
Eve Vaterlaus with the fabric pieces she painted
I knew I wanted to drape the dresses directly on the dress form and on the bias without making a pattern.
It is scary, but exhilarating to make the first cut - I ended up using almost every bit of the fabric.
The dresses modeled by my two favorite models - my nieces. . .
Pink Peonies on pale green satin modeled by Ellison Mellor
Yellow silk Poppies
modeled by Lucy Debernardi
It was a busy and productive couple of months. I always love this time of year and especially this year, with covid numbers declining and some activity returning. I was encouraged that people bought lots of dresses at my Spring Sale, which indicates that they see a future in dressing up and going out again.
Sophie in Peacock blue silk draped gown photo: Liz Hafter
I made this dress in 2005 originally as a costume for Trisha Brown to wear in a duet in Lyon, France. We decided on something simpler and I then sold it to a dear client. Some years later this client recommended me to Sophie and her Mom, one of her best friends, to design a Bat mitzvah dress. Now- Sophie is graduating from high school and the friend leant her the gown to wear to her prom. She chose to wear Doc Martins as footwear, (not pictured) which I love!
I went to the first art shows I had seen in 15 months- Lee Krasner collages at Paul Kasmin Gallery and Terry Winters Paintings and drawings at Matthew Marks Gallery
& dresses!
Virtual travel during time of Covid - collages using images from Chateaus in France including the Chateau Villette a luxury wedding destination -
Bunny Coat! Fabric painted by Ray Smith - wool Melton - lined in silk satin
I’ve enjoyed meeting with clients one-on-one during my sale this month. It’s great to be able to really focus on one person, even though I miss the social interaction of the evening sales. . .There is still time to visit- please contact me through the contact page to make an appointment. Masks worn, of course!
I ventured out last weekend to make a citibike trip to my studio where I haven’t been since early March. I was greeted by a lovely sunny view of everything in place just as I left it. I collected some fabric and things I could use to work from home. I am making a limited edition of masks and samples. To this end I have set up a page called “Shop” where you can view items that I have for purchase. In the spirit of couture, you may contact me directly to inquire about any items that you are interested in. I can send additional information/ photos on most items and answer questions as to fit and construction. I take many forms of payment including PayPal, Venmo, Zelle and regular credit cards. I hope you are all well and manginging to stay safe in our altered reality.♥️
Stay Safe !
4-ply silk crepe is a beautiful fabric with a luxurious hand that can be worn year round
engraving - jean-jaques lequeu - living room at Hotel le Montholon - 1786 -
Dress - 4-ply silk with silk chiffon sleeve and lining - size 6 -$950.
The Chelsea Galleries are full of color and inspiration this month. I only have to leave my studio and walk a few steps to enter whole other worlds .
Nicolas Party has transformed the Flag Art Foundation into a stage set for pastel works by various artists including Degas and Mary Cassatt. His Rococo- inspired murals cover whole rooms in the lavishly colored 2 floor space.
Pastel wall painting by Nicolas Party with painting by Edgar degas
pearl silk and wool suit w/ cloisonné buttons
green silk jersey, wool Pierre Cardin -inspired Mom’s bat mitzvah dress, black chiffon, japanese cotton ikat dresses, white silk and wool jacket over silk shantung - chantilly lace overlay skirt
Elisabeth Kley has teamed up with Tabboo! to create an enchanting environment of wall-painting and ceramic fountains at the Gordon Robichaux Gallery in Union Square reminiscent of a Roman Courtyard.
Verdant Green silk Jersey top with African cotton wax print skirt
Black English wool jacket with flower and lace adorned silk shantung skirt
Karen Kilimnik’s French-inspired small paintings and sculptures at 303 Gallery
Indian Kantha quilt made into a Frock coat
Draped cotton wax -print dress
Philip Taaffe at Luhring augustine Gallery
Japanese Cotton double-sided coat and dress ensemble made for client
Marrekech Dress - multi cotton dutch wax African Prints
“ Sometimes, with exquisite delicacy, a touch of pink was added to the uniform gray of sea and sky; and at the very bottom of the Harmony in Grey and Pink after Whistler, a tiny moth asleep on the windowpane seemed to lend its wings to the favorite signature of the master from Chelsea.”
á L’Ombre des Jeunnes Filles en Fleurs - Marcel Proust
new Dutch wax print dresses in progress in my studio
visit from my niece, Lucy, wearing pontè knit butterfly sweater
Judith Linhares Flower paintings recently at PPOW Gallery in Chelsea
Judith Linhares
Since the solstice and a very busy November and December I have been ensconced in my atelier meditating and working on new designs. It is always so informative to interact with the array of women who come to my sales and see their reactions to the samples and what they end up going home with. Their needs and desires ultimately influence what I come up with in the coming months. I am happily surprised to see that many of my patterns work on different sizes and shapes of bodies. This is an ever-evolving pursuit- to come up with figure flattering and flexible shapes. I have replenished my stock of Wax-print fabrics and I find it very cheering to have a bit of color around me and to think ahead to warmer weather.
Tailored suit in a silk/wool blend, inspired by Dior
This "Raj" jacket is convertible into different configurations- a simple fitted style or the pull back beribboned version shown here.
wax-print jacket with optional silk tartan bows
a blue version of my "poppy" dress in wax-print cotton is an example of a figure-loving dress
wax-print cotton - with selvage-edge finishing- size 4 - 12 in various prints - $475. - $575. depending on customization
wax-prints before washing
This was a magical December night of the super moon (which I didn't manage to capture) but it seems to be reflected in this taffeta moirè fabric which I made into a Qipau. . .
silk moirè taffeta from Paris
I met this bright young student on New Year's Eve who wanted to try on my flower crown- Happy New Year everyone! Let's try and stay positive!
pleas contact me through the contact page in the menu
Sale extended thru Dec. 22 by appt.
make appt by contacting me on the contact page
suit and dresses by Elizabeth Cannon
Custom-Made Womenswear
New York City’s couture-dressmakers, tailors and custom-fitters are on the rebound. Here’s a guide to 10 who make the cut.
by Linda Dyett
We consumers—especially midlife and older Americans—are paring down our wardrobes and shopping less and less these days—but we’re also spending more for higher-quality wearables that express our individuality and suit us to a T. And after a decade of online point-and-click purchases, a lot of us are also eager to return to hands-on service in brick-and-mortar surroundings.
Enter custom-made—the artisanal antidote to fast fashion. Long the province of moneyed elites, celebrities, and mothers of the bride, custom dressmaking and tailoring are today also attracting regular women, who aren’t necessarily in the market for a dress to wear to a black-tie event. These new customers are ladies with style intuition, who know the cuts, fabrics, and colors they want when they see them. And with dozens of hours of pattern-making, cutting, sewing (sometimes by hand), and intricate multiple fittings, custom-made confers an optimal fit that disguises a bulging waist, out-of-shape hips, thighs, and arms, droopy breasts, posture slump, spinal curve, and other figure flaws.
Of course couture dressmakers and tailors come at a price. While I’ve located one who’ll work up one of her off-the-rack $100 to $400 dresses in a different size for no extra fee, most charge $240 and up for custom-made blouses and shirts; $500 and up for made-to-measure (a widely used industry term referring to garments derived from a standard pattern); and $1,500 and up for made-to-order dresses and suits. These are hardly bargains, but they compare so favorably with higher-end, A-list designer ready-to-wear that plenty of women, once they’ve tried New York couture, won’t switch back.
Here’s a rundown of some of the city’s most celebrated as well as off-the-beaten-track dressmakers and tailors who excel in couture and made-to-measure. Just keep in mind: what they offer isn’t seasonal fashion; it’s all about personal, individual style that you can hand down to your daughter or granddaughter, who’ll cherish it as much as you do. Appointments are essential almost everywhere, and finished garments take at least a month—sometimes several—to produce.
Elizabeth Cannon
Ensconced in a ground floor London Terrace studio, Elizabeth Cannon is that impossible-to-find accessible couturière whom stylish, independent-minded New York women dream about. Having honed her trade making costumes for the Paris Opera Ballet, her inspirations ranging from the Commedia dell’arte to Cocteau, she’s been designing made-to-order one-offs with a lyrical urban edge since 1980. Her clients? “Very decisive” artists, musicians, gallery owners, and entertainment executives, as well as members of the Trisha Brown Dance Company. “Nothing has ever fit me so perfectly,” says one delighted customer. “It’s as if Elizabeth were channeling Schiaparelli,” says another.
Cannon does couture by the book, using custom-padded dressmaker forms, muslins (initial mock-ups in an inexpensive fabric), and sometimes interior boned corsets. She also offers a signature collection of off-the-rack casual day- and eveningwear ($500 and up, though prices can plummet to $100 at frequent sales) that can be altered to fit. Outstanding items: A New Look-style silk shantung dress and jacket for a mother of the bride ($3,500); a silk-cotton blouse and heavy silk floral-print skirt with reinforced corseted yoke for a mother of the groom ($2,800); an African wax-print summer dress ($750); a belted, striped men’s shirting chemise, ($575, readymade; $750, made-to-order) that riffs on the frock Francoise Gilot wore in an iconic 1948 photo strolling along a French beach with an umbrella-wielding Pablo Picasso. Elizabeth Cannon Couture, 460 West 24th St., 212.929.8552.
