My friend Anushka Paris Carter who wore the Jumeliere dress in below post was gracious enough to model the Octopus dress in my studio. She is the co-writer and director/producer of the play “Uncommon Sense” and is working on a new project now. The fabric, as noted below, was hand-painted by artist Eve Vaterlaus, with whom I have had an on-going collaboration since the 1980’s. We have created many hand-painted dresses together over the years.
couture dressmaking
The Tao of the Drape
Fabrics always have the upper hand. Color and pattern predominate. Each fabric has an individual nature and I like to observe it before cutting. What does it want to become?
I gave this length of pink 4-ply silk to my friend and collaborator Eve Vaterlaus. She came up with the idea to paint an Ocropus which was quite challenging both to paint and also to fashion into a dress.
As is usually the case with hand-painted fabric I drape it right on the form rather than make a pattern first.
I used a fleshy silk georgette as the lining and underskirt after much back and forth over what to choose. It was serendipitous that the tentacle lined up between the upper back bodice and skirt section.
We first pictured the Octopus eye at the top of the fabric, but it seemed to belong in the side front swirl of the skirt.
The blue background fabric was painted by my dear friend Michel Bergonne who passed away last April in Paris.
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In August 2001 we spent my 50th birthday in a castle in France with my dear Viennese friend Marieli Fröhlich and her immediate family and friends. I did the hand beading and sequinning on this net dress which was to be included in an upcoming solo gallery show.
In June of this year my friend actor and playright Anushka Paris Carter who I hadn’t heard from in many years, wrote me to ask if her daughter could wear the Jumeliere dress to her prom. I said Yes, absolutely! and we arranged a visit.
Zoe had seen pictures of her Mom wearing the dress at the Tony’s and also the Emmy Awards and had long fantasized about wearing it herself.
Anushka Paris Carter and husband Andy Paris who was nominated as one of the writers of The Laramie Project
Ballet Dancer Zoe Paris Carter on the night of her high school prom wearing the Jumeliere Dress
I am working on mother of the groom dress for an August wedding. The client wanted a shawl to go over the dress. I hand painted a piece of silk organza and was very unsure about it - until I saw a Cy Twombly painting of roses at the Flagg art Foundation in a show called A Rose Is.
silk cloqué organza with hand-painted silk organza shawl
Cy Twombly Roses at the Flagg Art Foundation
Silk Organza shawl draped
Client trying on shoes to go with mother of the groom dress
I have had this blue linen check fabric in a client’s stash for several years. I didn’t really know what to do with it as it seemed rather dull until I placed the fabric on the bias- I also lined the sleeves and hem with a burnt red linen that matched the stripe.
Blue and red check linen dress
The interfaced linen band at hem gave the dress some body without which it seems rather limp.
linen herringbone suit with white cotton trim and zip jacket
Liberty cotton dress for 1 yr old grand niece Ayla
back of Aylas dress with adjustable bow
3 yr old Charlotte in Greece wearing her birthday dress
Thank you for visiting! Let’s try and keep the world safe and beautiful and free for the children❤️
Love is in the Air
The weather is dismal, news unrelenting, flus and colds persist . .and yet. . .
wax print Pierrot dress sz 4-6
As you can probably tell if you’ve looked at my website or blog, I love working with patterns. When a client brought a scarf back from Indonesia with the request that it inspire an outfit, we were off and running.
I gave the scarf to my collaborator, artist Eve Vaterlaus, to come up with some ideas. After some back and forth she painted a motif of roses and apples that the client loved.
Hand-painted cotton blouse with cotton piping and etched bone buttons - cotton, wool and silk skirt
Client likes a coordinated vest for the warm weather in Indonesia rather than a jacket
we designed the blouse in an Asian style to better show off the fabric print and I went against sartorial rules for a women’s garment and fastened the blouse from left to right for the same reason..
The piped edges and facing gave a weight to the garment - I love the minimal back
Still loving and having fun with the wax prints and my new dress form from Andy’s dress forms that fits me perfectly! I now want all the sizes from Andy’s!! They are made by hand in NYC
A Happy Belated Valentines Day to All❣️
Flowers from my darling husband❤️
Making a Couture wardrobe
Couture means having your clothes tailored just for you- to your taste, fit and needs. A chic pair of PJ’s for walking the dog? Why not!
Blue cotton flannel with indigo cotton trim Printed in Japan
“Beaton” wool houndstooth tweed fabric made in London from Dashing Tweeds with shell buttons
wool Loden jacket with cashmere details and horn buttons - not shown- matching cashmere pants
Wool Plaid dress with frog details
cashmire suit and silk cravat blouse with client-provided materials
Archipelago
in Couture, Art, dresses, inspiration
I came upon these notes I wrote 13 years ago and also the photos that accompany them which popped up as a memory on Facebook. It turns out that I also met the artist, Jerelyn Hanrahan, who created the Pearl sculpture through Facebook quite a few years after taking these pictures.
Alaina Ferris modeling in front of Jereyln Hanrahan’s pearl sculpture
Archipelago
Black silk with large ecru polka- dots. Saw fabric in Dec and kept swatch; romancing it, lusting after it- afraid of it. Polka-dots- such a polarizing statement. very loaded iconography. Spanish roots? Society women wouldn’t be caught dead in a large polka-dot dress. Gilles from Paris (James Lord’s companion and adopted son) declaring them to be gauche- only hookers would wear them. An irredeemably clownish aspect- Flamenco flamboyance, so seductive and dangerous, yet verging on the silly and laughable. July 6- could not resist. Having sketched a design for Paris trunk show- bought 3 yards. Fantasized about buying 6 more perhaps. . .to have enough. Immediately deçu! Not right- too regular, vulgar- no one would be caught dead in it! Left the roll of fabric sitting in a corner for 2 days- glancing at it, only unfurling it once part way to ascertain the hand of it. doubts about skirt- needs to be on the bias, broken up a bit- given more life. July 8 - Unfurl it. Quickly decide to cut off one length - 44”, not realizng I am making a square. cut the 2nd 44” and have 12”left over. Good. Begin draping a skirt. Not on bias, but with a sarong-like fold in front. Move it to the bust on dress form. Loving it! loving the way the folds fall over the bust- tuck the excess over and sew into place before I don’t lose it. Impossible to replicate! Begin in back- try the same thing- pin - try on - lose pins - pin on straps - keep losing it. Decide to take in fullness in top back. Yes! It is working. . . try on many times - pinning, re-pinning, testing. It works! Fabric feels luscious- Billows, moves like a sail with a breeze.
Dressing Up for the New Year
It’s been a harrowing and unsettling time for many and the future feels uncertain. It is good to connect in person and perhaps indulge in some sartorial fun. My winter sale was the setting for much good cheer and an oasis from the outside world.
Artists Mary Jones in Silk Satin stripe organza dress and Jill Levine in Silk cheongsan dress with flower embellishment.
Caroline wearing silk velvet “Confetti Dress” from 1995 show with Mary Heilmann “Crimson and Clover”
Laurie Eustis Taffetta Coral dress
Joelle Reilly in Wax print skirt with silk paint splatter sash
Mary Jones shopping the rack
Joanne Gair in Fallen Tree dress
The Twi proverb written on this dress says ‘Dua Kur Gye Enum A Obu” which means “A Tree Alone Cannot stand the Wind”
Wishing everyone a Healthy Peacfull and love-filled New Year❣️
Summer Chiffon & Blue Velvet
On a hot sultry day one wants something light and airy. Perhaps a dress of floral printed silk chiffon. This pattern reminds me of Monet’s garden., Giverny. Paired with a linen burlap -textured jacket it becomes an outfit for meetings, traveling or n’importe quoi. The blue velvet dress, on the other hand, one can dream about wearing to a winter fête or a dinner by candlelight in the chilly months.
silk chiffon dress with snaps down front and double tie sash. worn with emerald silk slip
silk chiffon dress worn with camel color linen jacket lined in silk charmeuse
blue velvet dress with boned bodice and diamanté straps- low back and floor length skirt - lined in silk
model: Ellison Mellor
Working with Couture Fabrics
I’ve been working on outfits for clients near and far - here is a peak into my studio these first months of 2023 -
a spectacular textured silk and wool from Italy with Fleur de Lys 3-D embellishments -
I made a rosette pin as an embellishment
The complete outfit for an ambassador dinner with Ottoman coat and 4-ply silk splatter lining and scarf
Iridescent silk dress in a color I call Absynthe with puckered details borrowed from the V& A antique costume collection
Tweed jacket with gold trim, silk chiffon blouse and corduroy skirt
Surprise pink silk lining
Lightweight wool challis brought to me by client
blue wool and mohair coat with fabric given to me by above client
Continuing the blue theme- a blue velvet dress I made as a sample
Dark Navy cashmere coat with appliques made for fun as sample - inspiration taken from dear friends I’ve lost and hold near me
This summery chiffon dress came to visit for a touch-up
Anticipating Spring! Fun was had at my Winter sale
Love and good health to all! Keep your heart open
My littlest client and grandniece in her polka-dot Christmas dress with chiffon collar
Fresh Blue and White for summer!
Recently made as part of a wardrobe for client
Embroidered Cotton/ Poly Duster coat with bias edging over white cotton pants and cotton stripe fil coupé shirt with knot buttons
cuff detail
generous side patch pockets
Dressing for pleasure
Say goodbye to summer and it’s indolent airs , but not to the concept of dressing for pleasure. Dites Bonjour to mixing and layering prints, textures, colors or whatever you like- make dressing an adventure.
Orange Lampas Brocade coat over cotton print dress
The coat is lined in silk charmeuse and has antique filigree buttons collected in Southern Germany concealing hook and eye closures that fasten the coat - shown here also before buttons were added - coat sz 12 - $750. Dress sz 14 - $375.
A cotton wax-print frock coat can be layered over pants or dresses - to stylish effect - Letters and numbers Ankara print is a traditional African pattern - lined in rayon bemberg - sz 6-8 - $650.
Nothing says VIP better than a dress that actually says vip . . Cotton wax print button front dress with semi-belt tie. sz 6-8 - $550.
We got out of the city for the first time since the Pandemic- Had a lovely weekend visit with old friends at the beach.
Back in the studio. . . .
A full cotton print skirt with a belt and dark top has been my wardrobe choice for bicycling along the Hudson River to and from my studio feeling free as a bird!
Continue to stay safe everyone and dress for pleasure! ❤️
detail of Peony - painted by Eve Vaterlaus
Peonies on Silk
I recently asked longtime friend and collaborator Eve Vaterlaus to paint whatever she liked for me on two pieces of silk.. I chose a heavy weight silk charmeuse with a luxurious hand.
Eve Vaterlaus with the fabric pieces she painted
I knew I wanted to drape the dresses directly on the dress form and on the bias without making a pattern.
It is scary, but exhilarating to make the first cut - I ended up using almost every bit of the fabric.
The dresses modeled by my two favorite models - my nieces. . .
Pink Peonies on pale green satin modeled by Ellison Mellor
Yellow silk Poppies
modeled by Lucy Debernardi
Almost Summer
It was a busy and productive couple of months. I always love this time of year and especially this year, with covid numbers declining and some activity returning. I was encouraged that people bought lots of dresses at my Spring Sale, which indicates that they see a future in dressing up and going out again.
Sophie in Peacock blue silk draped gown photo: Liz Hafter
I made this dress in 2005 originally as a costume for Trisha Brown to wear in a duet in Lyon, France. We decided on something simpler and I then sold it to a dear client. Some years later this client recommended me to Sophie and her Mom, one of her best friends, to design a Bat mitzvah dress. Now- Sophie is graduating from high school and the friend leant her the gown to wear to her prom. She chose to wear Doc Martins as footwear, (not pictured) which I love!
SALE was the entire month of may, by appointment, at my atelier
The city was gorgeous and provided much inspiration!
I went to the first art shows I had seen in 15 months- Lee Krasner collages at Paul Kasmin Gallery and Terry Winters Paintings and drawings at Matthew Marks Gallery
& dresses!
Happy New Year 2021
Virtual travel during time of Covid - collages using images from Chateaus in France including the Chateau Villette a luxury wedding destination -
Bunny Coat! Central Park West - first snow!
Bunny Coat! Fabric painted by Ray Smith - wool Melton - lined in silk satin
Update on August Sale
I’ve enjoyed meeting with clients one-on-one during my sale this month. It’s great to be able to really focus on one person, even though I miss the social interaction of the evening sales. . .There is still time to visit- please contact me through the contact page to make an appointment. Masks worn, of course!
A visit to my studio
in Couture Studio, Couture, dresses
I ventured out last weekend to make a citibike trip to my studio where I haven’t been since early March. I was greeted by a lovely sunny view of everything in place just as I left it. I collected some fabric and things I could use to work from home. I am making a limited edition of masks and samples. To this end I have set up a page called “Shop” where you can view items that I have for purchase. In the spirit of couture, you may contact me directly to inquire about any items that you are interested in. I can send additional information/ photos on most items and answer questions as to fit and construction. I take many forms of payment including PayPal, Venmo, Zelle and regular credit cards. I hope you are all well and manginging to stay safe in our altered reality.♥️
Stay Safe !
Draped silk dresses
4-ply silk crepe is a beautiful fabric with a luxurious hand that can be worn year round
engraving - jean-jaques lequeu - living room at Hotel le Montholon - 1786 -
Dress - 4-ply silk with silk chiffon sleeve and lining - size 6 -$950.
Colorful Couture Fall
in Art, Couture Studio, dresses, inspiration
The Chelsea Galleries are full of color and inspiration this month. I only have to leave my studio and walk a few steps to enter whole other worlds .
Nicolas Party has transformed the Flag Art Foundation into a stage set for pastel works by various artists including Degas and Mary Cassatt. His Rococo- inspired murals cover whole rooms in the lavishly colored 2 floor space.
Pastel wall painting by Nicolas Party with painting by Edgar degas
pearl silk and wool suit w/ cloisonné buttons
green silk jersey, wool Pierre Cardin -inspired Mom’s bat mitzvah dress, black chiffon, japanese cotton ikat dresses, white silk and wool jacket over silk shantung - chantilly lace overlay skirt
Elisabeth Kley has teamed up with Tabboo! to create an enchanting environment of wall-painting and ceramic fountains at the Gordon Robichaux Gallery in Union Square reminiscent of a Roman Courtyard.
Verdant Green silk Jersey top with African cotton wax print skirt
Black English wool jacket with flower and lace adorned silk shantung skirt
Karen Kilimnik’s French-inspired small paintings and sculptures at 303 Gallery
Indian Kantha quilt made into a Frock coat
Draped cotton wax -print dress
Philip Taaffe at Luhring augustine Gallery
Japanese Cotton double-sided coat and dress ensemble made for client
Spring Sale coming soon!
Please check the Dresses page to view some of the remaining sale items which are still available and feel free to make an appointment to visit the atelier in person by visiting the contact page -
Marrekech Dress - multi cotton dutch wax African Prints
A Garden of Dresses
“ Sometimes, with exquisite delicacy, a touch of pink was added to the uniform gray of sea and sky; and at the very bottom of the Harmony in Grey and Pink after Whistler, a tiny moth asleep on the windowpane seemed to lend its wings to the favorite signature of the master from Chelsea.”
á L’Ombre des Jeunnes Filles en Fleurs - Marcel Proust
new Dutch wax print dresses in progress in my studio
visit from my niece, Lucy, wearing pontè knit butterfly sweater
Judith Linhares Flower paintings recently at PPOW Gallery in Chelsea
Happy Spring Everyone!
Judith Linhares
Celestial Suiting
Since the solstice and a very busy November and December I have been ensconced in my atelier meditating and working on new designs. It is always so informative to interact with the array of women who come to my sales and see their reactions to the samples and what they end up going home with. Their needs and desires ultimately influence what I come up with in the coming months. I am happily surprised to see that many of my patterns work on different sizes and shapes of bodies. This is an ever-evolving pursuit- to come up with figure flattering and flexible shapes. I have replenished my stock of Wax-print fabrics and I find it very cheering to have a bit of color around me and to think ahead to warmer weather.
Tailored suit in a silk/wool blend, inspired by Dior
This "Raj" jacket is convertible into different configurations- a simple fitted style or the pull back beribboned version shown here.
wax-print jacket with optional silk tartan bows
a blue version of my "poppy" dress in wax-print cotton is an example of a figure-loving dress
wax-print cotton - with selvage-edge finishing- size 4 - 12 in various prints - $475. - $575. depending on customization
wax-prints before washing
This was a magical December night of the super moon (which I didn't manage to capture) but it seems to be reflected in this taffeta moirè fabric which I made into a Qipau. . .
silk moirè taffeta from Paris
I met this bright young student on New Year's Eve who wanted to try on my flower crown- Happy New Year everyone! Let's try and stay positive!