My friend Anushka Paris Carter who wore the Jumeliere dress in below post was gracious enough to model the Octopus dress in my studio. She is the co-writer and director/producer of the play “Uncommon Sense” and is working on a new project now. The fabric, as noted below, was hand-painted by artist Eve Vaterlaus, with whom I have had an on-going collaboration since the 1980’s. We have created many hand-painted dresses together over the years.
Hand-painted fabric
The Tao of the Drape
Fabrics always have the upper hand. Color and pattern predominate. Each fabric has an individual nature and I like to observe it before cutting. What does it want to become?
I gave this length of pink 4-ply silk to my friend and collaborator Eve Vaterlaus. She came up with the idea to paint an Ocropus which was quite challenging both to paint and also to fashion into a dress.
As is usually the case with hand-painted fabric I drape it right on the form rather than make a pattern first.
I used a fleshy silk georgette as the lining and underskirt after much back and forth over what to choose. It was serendipitous that the tentacle lined up between the upper back bodice and skirt section.
We first pictured the Octopus eye at the top of the fabric, but it seemed to belong in the side front swirl of the skirt.
The blue background fabric was painted by my dear friend Michel Bergonne who passed away last April in Paris.
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In August 2001 we spent my 50th birthday in a castle in France with my dear Viennese friend Marieli Fröhlich and her immediate family and friends. I did the hand beading and sequinning on this net dress which was to be included in an upcoming solo gallery show.
In June of this year my friend actor and playright Anushka Paris Carter who I hadn’t heard from in many years, wrote me to ask if her daughter could wear the Jumeliere dress to her prom. I said Yes, absolutely! and we arranged a visit.
Zoe had seen pictures of her Mom wearing the dress at the Tony’s and also the Emmy Awards and had long fantasized about wearing it herself.
Anushka Paris Carter and husband Andy Paris who was nominated as one of the writers of The Laramie Project
Ballet Dancer Zoe Paris Carter on the night of her high school prom wearing the Jumeliere Dress
I am working on mother of the groom dress for an August wedding. The client wanted a shawl to go over the dress. I hand painted a piece of silk organza and was very unsure about it - until I saw a Cy Twombly painting of roses at the Flagg art Foundation in a show called A Rose Is.
silk cloqué organza with hand-painted silk organza shawl
Cy Twombly Roses at the Flagg Art Foundation
Silk Organza shawl draped
Client trying on shoes to go with mother of the groom dress
I have had this blue linen check fabric in a client’s stash for several years. I didn’t really know what to do with it as it seemed rather dull until I placed the fabric on the bias- I also lined the sleeves and hem with a burnt red linen that matched the stripe.
Blue and red check linen dress
The interfaced linen band at hem gave the dress some body without which it seems rather limp.
linen herringbone suit with white cotton trim and zip jacket
Liberty cotton dress for 1 yr old grand niece Ayla
back of Aylas dress with adjustable bow
3 yr old Charlotte in Greece wearing her birthday dress
Thank you for visiting! Let’s try and keep the world safe and beautiful and free for the children❤️
detail of Peony - painted by Eve Vaterlaus
Peonies on Silk
I recently asked longtime friend and collaborator Eve Vaterlaus to paint whatever she liked for me on two pieces of silk.. I chose a heavy weight silk charmeuse with a luxurious hand.
Eve Vaterlaus with the fabric pieces she painted
I knew I wanted to drape the dresses directly on the dress form and on the bias without making a pattern.
It is scary, but exhilarating to make the first cut - I ended up using almost every bit of the fabric.
The dresses modeled by my two favorite models - my nieces. . .
Pink Peonies on pale green satin modeled by Ellison Mellor
Yellow silk Poppies
modeled by Lucy Debernardi
Artists Choose Designer- from the Archives
On Dec 12, 1986- January 4 1987 - Almost exactly 30 years ago- I did a show at the E. M. Donahue Gallery called "Artists Choose Designer" . It was a cheeky title, because I actually chose 13 artists to design fabric for me rather than the other way around.
cotton fabric designed with potato prints by Mary Boochever. photo: Warren Mantooth
show invitation
Garments were displayed on plaster cast dress forms and tension suspended from top and bottom with technical help from Diane Lewis and lighting design by Taro Suzuki
Installation shot
Pouf-skirt dress made of cotton velvet and cotton painted by Dike Blair photo- Warren Mantooth
Cotton velvet coat with day-glo dots by Taro Suzuki and dress on form painted by Dike Blair- photo- Janette Beckman from Prêt Magazine
Cotton 2-piece dress from silk screen print by Joseph Nechvatel
cotton fish dress painted by Eve Vaterlaus. photo- Warren Mantooth
Silk Shantung halter dress with cotton underskirt and button corset belt painted by Tommy Trosch photo- Warren Mantooth
Baby blue leather coat painted in silver marker ink by Jo Shane from Cocteau drawings
Plaster custom dress form