Please join us on August 28 for a very special sale with greatly reduced prices on couture items!
Couture Studio
The Tao of the Drape
Fabrics always have the upper hand. Color and pattern predominate. Each fabric has an individual nature and I like to observe it before cutting. What does it want to become?
I gave this length of pink 4-ply silk to my friend and collaborator Eve Vaterlaus. She came up with the idea to paint an Ocropus which was quite challenging both to paint and also to fashion into a dress.
As is usually the case with hand-painted fabric I drape it right on the form rather than make a pattern first.
I used a fleshy silk georgette as the lining and underskirt after much back and forth over what to choose. It was serendipitous that the tentacle lined up between the upper back bodice and skirt section.
We first pictured the Octopus eye at the top of the fabric, but it seemed to belong in the side front swirl of the skirt.
The blue background fabric was painted by my dear friend Michel Bergonne who passed away last April in Paris.
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In August 2001 we spent my 50th birthday in a castle in France with my dear Viennese friend Marieli Fröhlich and her immediate family and friends. I did the hand beading and sequinning on this net dress which was to be included in an upcoming solo gallery show.
In June of this year my friend actor and playright Anushka Paris Carter who I hadn’t heard from in many years, wrote me to ask if her daughter could wear the Jumeliere dress to her prom. I said Yes, absolutely! and we arranged a visit.
Zoe had seen pictures of her Mom wearing the dress at the Tony’s and also the Emmy Awards and had long fantasized about wearing it herself.
Anushka Paris Carter and husband Andy Paris who was nominated as one of the writers of The Laramie Project
Ballet Dancer Zoe Paris Carter on the night of her high school prom wearing the Jumeliere Dress
I am working on mother of the groom dress for an August wedding. The client wanted a shawl to go over the dress. I hand painted a piece of silk organza and was very unsure about it - until I saw a Cy Twombly painting of roses at the Flagg art Foundation in a show called A Rose Is.
silk cloqué organza with hand-painted silk organza shawl
Cy Twombly Roses at the Flagg Art Foundation
Silk Organza shawl draped
Client trying on shoes to go with mother of the groom dress
I have had this blue linen check fabric in a client’s stash for several years. I didn’t really know what to do with it as it seemed rather dull until I placed the fabric on the bias- I also lined the sleeves and hem with a burnt red linen that matched the stripe.
Blue and red check linen dress
The interfaced linen band at hem gave the dress some body without which it seems rather limp.
linen herringbone suit with white cotton trim and zip jacket
Liberty cotton dress for 1 yr old grand niece Ayla
back of Aylas dress with adjustable bow
3 yr old Charlotte in Greece wearing her birthday dress
Thank you for visiting! Let’s try and keep the world safe and beautiful and free for the children❤️
Love is in the Air
The weather is dismal, news unrelenting, flus and colds persist . .and yet. . .
wax print Pierrot dress sz 4-6
As you can probably tell if you’ve looked at my website or blog, I love working with patterns. When a client brought a scarf back from Indonesia with the request that it inspire an outfit, we were off and running.
I gave the scarf to my collaborator, artist Eve Vaterlaus, to come up with some ideas. After some back and forth she painted a motif of roses and apples that the client loved.
Hand-painted cotton blouse with cotton piping and etched bone buttons - cotton, wool and silk skirt
Client likes a coordinated vest for the warm weather in Indonesia rather than a jacket
we designed the blouse in an Asian style to better show off the fabric print and I went against sartorial rules for a women’s garment and fastened the blouse from left to right for the same reason..
The piped edges and facing gave a weight to the garment - I love the minimal back
Still loving and having fun with the wax prints and my new dress form from Andy’s dress forms that fits me perfectly! I now want all the sizes from Andy’s!! They are made by hand in NYC
A Happy Belated Valentines Day to All❣️
Flowers from my darling husband❤️
Gala Dressing
A week before the 2024 election it is safe to say we are suspended in time- holding our breath, or perhaps working like crazy on behalf of our candidate. Personally I say VOTE - VOTE BLUE - and elect Kamala Harris!
n the occasion of the 200th anniversary of the Marquis de Lafayette’s visit to George Washington’s home Mt. Vernon- I created this blue ensemble for a very valued client.
silk Matelesé dress and jacket
Jacket with “faux bow” attaches with inside coat hook
Client’s own heirloom pin on moiré ribbon
Jacket and dress cuffs lined in ochre moiré - Bolero follows line of seam in dress
Occasionally a client will find a dress that has been in my studio for a few years and it is love at first sight- with a few revisions the perfect outfit for an upcoming Gala
Silk satin stripe organza gown with beaded detail
back of dress with lace inset
back with lace detail
A visiter to my website wanted an outfit recreated for a nephew’s lavish wedding in Rome. I was able to find the same corded Alençon lace at Gelmore Lace. The swarvoski crystal Buttons are from M & J Trimming- saddly due to close at the end of this year.
Silk chiffon blouse w/ swarvski buttons and sleeve bows - Alençon lace skirt lined in crepe back silk satin
Navy silk chiffon blouse
New addition to the family- grand neice Ayla - daughter of neice Ellie and wife Shy with Ellie in matching couture- never too young❣️
Ellie and Ayla in matching cotton wax print dresses - fabric from Eliebea
stay sane and dont forget to dress up and Vote ! Thank you for visiting ❣️
Flowers of Spring
I can’t help but be inspired by the growth and renewal all around us- even as the world feels uncertain and brutal in so many ways, Spring has always been a symbol of hope and new life-
Fil Coupé silk organza blouse w/ flowers and butterflies
Silk tweed skirt and vest with gold trim and Oscar (de La Renta) buttons
detail
I looked everywhere for the buttons to tie this outfit together and finally found these perfect cloisonné ones at Mood. The silk organza blouse fabric is from B&J fabrics. Tweed was brought to me by client
Found this incredible cotton print a few years ago at Beckenstein Fabrics and not sure what we would do with it. .
Elephants on orange clouds among multi-colored plaid and decorative motifs
The idea coalesced when we looked at this Kantha print- also bought a few years ago during Covid- and decided the two were meant for each other!
Short Kantha cotton quilted jacket over Elephant print dress.
Mother of the Groom - wedding in Germany
Cotton print dress with silk and wool coat
Around town
Joan Jonas at Moma
My costumes at the Joyce
Central Park Conservancy Garden in April
New Grandniece - Elizabeth - born in April
Another Grandniece on the way!
Riding through Central Park
Thank you so much for visiting! Please stay safe and be kind ❤️
Making a Couture wardrobe
Couture means having your clothes tailored just for you- to your taste, fit and needs. A chic pair of PJ’s for walking the dog? Why not!
Blue cotton flannel with indigo cotton trim Printed in Japan
“Beaton” wool houndstooth tweed fabric made in London from Dashing Tweeds with shell buttons
wool Loden jacket with cashmere details and horn buttons - not shown- matching cashmere pants
Wool Plaid dress with frog details
cashmire suit and silk cravat blouse with client-provided materials
Tweeds, cowls and dancers
This year has started with lots of work. - outfits for clients’ events near and far - new African fabrics from Vlisco waiting to be cut and some new dance costumes for a piece I designed in 2019.
Trisha Brown dancers in “Working Title” photographed on French tour by Delphine Perrin
There were some new dancers in the company since I made the original costumes- The dancer on the left is the 4th one to wear this costume with a bit of tweaking. The middle costume is entirely new and the fushia orchid pants are a new addition. I didn’t use any stretch in the fabics (all cotton & silk) The pants must accomodate a wide range of movement and stand up to many wearings and washings! The first thing the dancers do when trying on the pants is a deep plié. I am always so relieved when they perform well.
Coming to the Joyce Theater NYC March 26 - 31
I was contacted by someone from my website who wanted to give a gift certificate to his sister. It took about a year for her to contact me, but when we met she ordered a dress and chose fabric of which I had a small piece in my studio. The fabric was a block print from India, I didn’t remember the vendor. After a google image search I was able to find someone in India who printed the exact pattern for me. She was very happy with the dress and buttons that I found . her brother also bought her a mohair coat from my studio as a second gift .
Both of these tweeds were brought to me by the client. I had the double sided silk satin from Paris which matched beautifully. The velvet trims tied it together and the raw edged ruffled collar was the finishing touch!
multi -tweed jacket over silk satin dress
The fabric in this dress actually has strands of tartan cloth woven into it,
Wool tweed with generous pockets and self fringe detail on sleeves
tartan strips woven into fabric
These blue silk fabrics were brought to me by a different client . She had a niece’s bat mitzvah in February. I made her a dress and coat of a fairly simple shape which let the fabrics speak
Ice blue silk and wool sheath dress with cowl neckline
Silk brocade rhinestone embellished fabric in coat over silk & wool cowl dress
35 yards of wax- printed cotton to inspire and play with all washed and waiting. . .
Thank you for visiting! Please check back soon❤️
Dressing Up for the New Year
It’s been a harrowing and unsettling time for many and the future feels uncertain. It is good to connect in person and perhaps indulge in some sartorial fun. My winter sale was the setting for much good cheer and an oasis from the outside world.
Artists Mary Jones in Silk Satin stripe organza dress and Jill Levine in Silk cheongsan dress with flower embellishment.
Caroline wearing silk velvet “Confetti Dress” from 1995 show with Mary Heilmann “Crimson and Clover”
Laurie Eustis Taffetta Coral dress
Joelle Reilly in Wax print skirt with silk paint splatter sash
Mary Jones shopping the rack
Joanne Gair in Fallen Tree dress
The Twi proverb written on this dress says ‘Dua Kur Gye Enum A Obu” which means “A Tree Alone Cannot stand the Wind”
Wishing everyone a Healthy Peacfull and love-filled New Year❣️
Winter Sale
Working with Couture Fabrics
I’ve been working on outfits for clients near and far - here is a peak into my studio these first months of 2023 -
a spectacular textured silk and wool from Italy with Fleur de Lys 3-D embellishments -
I made a rosette pin as an embellishment
The complete outfit for an ambassador dinner with Ottoman coat and 4-ply silk splatter lining and scarf
Iridescent silk dress in a color I call Absynthe with puckered details borrowed from the V& A antique costume collection
Tweed jacket with gold trim, silk chiffon blouse and corduroy skirt
Surprise pink silk lining
Lightweight wool challis brought to me by client
blue wool and mohair coat with fabric given to me by above client
Continuing the blue theme- a blue velvet dress I made as a sample
Dark Navy cashmere coat with appliques made for fun as sample - inspiration taken from dear friends I’ve lost and hold near me
This summery chiffon dress came to visit for a touch-up
Anticipating Spring! Fun was had at my Winter sale
Love and good health to all! Keep your heart open
My littlest client and grandniece in her polka-dot Christmas dress with chiffon collar
Fall in all it's beauty
There’s always something reassuring and thrilling to me as the seasons change - and this year the colors of Fall in New York where I am are gloriously beautiful. One wants to be wrapped up in cozy scarves and lovely wool fabrics. At least I do. And happily my clients agree with me. I’ve been at work on some Fall and winter outfits for several months.
Cashmere loden coat with orange wool crepe piping and crest buttons for client
detail
Working with clients
I have had the pleasure to work with some wonderful people. It is, at it’s best, a collaboration between designer and client. The more I get to know the client, the more fruitful the relationship becomes. I like to make clothes that are not so trendy that they go out of style in a season. Classics that are well made and well designed can last for years! These were all made recently for one client.
wool plaid dress with self fringe and generous pockets - made for client
cotton flannel Pajamas with novelty wool trim - snap front closure and optional belt - for client
doubleface wool jacket with gold zips and subtle windowpane plaid pants - for client
wool plaid jacket with plaid buttons, wool voile shirt, and wool pants
Japanese cotton jacket with silk lining, self frogs and patterned buttons over Aboriginal cotton dress
frog and button detail - Japanese cotton jacket
Cotton Matelassé dress
Wool coat over linen dress
detail - linen curve dress and wool coat
Linen curve dress withe kantha cloth piping - coordinates with Kantha coat
Happy and Healthy 2022
in Art, Couture Studio, Drawings, inspiration
wishing everyone a positive year ahead in which we stay safe but don’t forget to dream
Lucire
I am so pleased that this article by Jack Yan, published in his lavish New Zealand magazine, Lucire, has just come out after a year long delay due to covid. It covers quite a bit of my history in his perceptive interview-
Dressing for pleasure
Say goodbye to summer and it’s indolent airs , but not to the concept of dressing for pleasure. Dites Bonjour to mixing and layering prints, textures, colors or whatever you like- make dressing an adventure.
Orange Lampas Brocade coat over cotton print dress
The coat is lined in silk charmeuse and has antique filigree buttons collected in Southern Germany concealing hook and eye closures that fasten the coat - shown here also before buttons were added - coat sz 12 - $750. Dress sz 14 - $375.
A cotton wax-print frock coat can be layered over pants or dresses - to stylish effect - Letters and numbers Ankara print is a traditional African pattern - lined in rayon bemberg - sz 6-8 - $650.
Nothing says VIP better than a dress that actually says vip . . Cotton wax print button front dress with semi-belt tie. sz 6-8 - $550.
We got out of the city for the first time since the Pandemic- Had a lovely weekend visit with old friends at the beach.
Back in the studio. . . .
A full cotton print skirt with a belt and dark top has been my wardrobe choice for bicycling along the Hudson River to and from my studio feeling free as a bird!
Continue to stay safe everyone and dress for pleasure! ❤️
detail of Peony - painted by Eve Vaterlaus
Peonies on Silk
I recently asked longtime friend and collaborator Eve Vaterlaus to paint whatever she liked for me on two pieces of silk.. I chose a heavy weight silk charmeuse with a luxurious hand.
Eve Vaterlaus with the fabric pieces she painted
I knew I wanted to drape the dresses directly on the dress form and on the bias without making a pattern.
It is scary, but exhilarating to make the first cut - I ended up using almost every bit of the fabric.
The dresses modeled by my two favorite models - my nieces. . .
Pink Peonies on pale green satin modeled by Ellison Mellor
Yellow silk Poppies
modeled by Lucy Debernardi
Spring sale!
May 1 - May 31
460 W. 24 St. 1B NY. NY. 10011
Contact me for more info on how to purchase or to make an appointment to visit my NYC Chelsea Atelier
check below for the $100 section
visit my atelier for more !
Update on August Sale
I’ve enjoyed meeting with clients one-on-one during my sale this month. It’s great to be able to really focus on one person, even though I miss the social interaction of the evening sales. . .There is still time to visit- please contact me through the contact page to make an appointment. Masks worn, of course!
Wax Print Swatch dress - working outside-in
This is the first dress I made (this time around) which began my fascination, or re-infatuation, with African wax-print fabrics. I first encountered these fabrics in Paris sometime in the 1980’s in one of the fabric shops at the base of Sacrè -Cœur. I hadn’t really thought about them for a while, when a few years ago I was given a salesmans’ swatch book from AK Fabrics, one of my favorite fabric stores. This was comprised of square pieces of various sizes. One day I decided to open it up and I just began to pin each one onto a dress form in the order that they came in. It was entirely serendipitous, and became the dress you see here. Each side is so different, I wanted to show them all and the pieced-together patchwork, born of necessity. Underneath it all I added a structure of a cotton dress with boned bodice and horsehair hem skirt. Though this dress has been sold, you can view other dresses for sale here.
August sale!
I will be having a sale for the entire month of August. Usually I would hold a sale in May and part of the fun is social- trying on dresses in the company of other women, while chatting and having a glass of wine. . .
This year is obviously different, so I will be seeing people individually, by appointment or in small family units of 2. . . I’ve been working hard and have lots of new items as well as older ones very enticingly priced! Come have a look, or a peek online. Please reach out to me with any questions-
Stay safe, healthy, and hope to see you!.
