There’s always something reassuring and thrilling to me as the seasons change - and this year the colors of Fall in New York where I am are gloriously beautiful. One wants to be wrapped up in cozy scarves and lovely wool fabrics. At least I do. And happily my clients agree with me. I’ve been at work on some Fall and winter outfits for several months.
Cashmere loden coat with orange wool crepe piping and crest buttons for client
detail
Over the last few months I have been working on several projects for weddings. I was lucky to design 3 Mother of the Bride/Groom dresses, a wedding dress for a Cathedral wedding and a wedding reception dress for my lovely niece and model. The last was a fairy tale wedding in Sintra Portugal which I also attended.
Sintra wedding - Ellie is wearing green silk peony dress- hand-painted by Eve Vaterlaus
The large floral print silk was chosen for it’s vibrant greens for a wedding in Ireland.
Mother of the Bride dress in silk shantung - with half cummerbund belt.
Large flower print bursting with vitality, as is it’s owner - for a wedding in Bermuda - the body and weight of the fabric leant itself to a simple figure-flattering shape.
Mother of the Bride dress in 6-ply organza
This wedding dress was a challenge to construct. The Bride was inspired by a Halston dress designed for Liza Minnelli. I love the contrast between the shimmering silver sequins and the fragile slightly irridescent silk chiffon. Luckily, Michael at B and J Fabrics was able to find the gorgeous chiffon which was super light, yet able to bear the weight of the dress.
virtual wedding at St John the Divine - silver metal sequins on silk chiffon with silk chiffon bodice/sleeve
This dress was draped on the client out of a single length of silk chiffon
Silk Chiffon burnout Mother of the Groom dress
The wedding of my niece was held in a fairytale castle on a perfect moonlit night in Sintra , Portugal.
Recently made as part of a wardrobe for client
Embroidered Cotton/ Poly Duster coat with bias edging over white cotton pants and cotton stripe fil coupé shirt with knot buttons
cuff detail
generous side patch pockets
I have had the pleasure to work with some wonderful people. It is, at it’s best, a collaboration between designer and client. The more I get to know the client, the more fruitful the relationship becomes. I like to make clothes that are not so trendy that they go out of style in a season. Classics that are well made and well designed can last for years! These were all made recently for one client.
wool plaid dress with self fringe and generous pockets - made for client
cotton flannel Pajamas with novelty wool trim - snap front closure and optional belt - for client
doubleface wool jacket with gold zips and subtle windowpane plaid pants - for client
wool plaid jacket with plaid buttons, wool voile shirt, and wool pants
Japanese cotton jacket with silk lining, self frogs and patterned buttons over Aboriginal cotton dress
frog and button detail - Japanese cotton jacket
Cotton Matelassé dress
Wool coat over linen dress
detail - linen curve dress and wool coat
Linen curve dress withe kantha cloth piping - coordinates with Kantha coat
wishing everyone a positive year ahead in which we stay safe but don’t forget to dream
I am so pleased that this article by Jack Yan, published in his lavish New Zealand magazine, Lucire, has just come out after a year long delay due to covid. It covers quite a bit of my history in his perceptive interview-
Say goodbye to summer and it’s indolent airs , but not to the concept of dressing for pleasure. Dites Bonjour to mixing and layering prints, textures, colors or whatever you like- make dressing an adventure.
Orange Lampas Brocade coat over cotton print dress
The coat is lined in silk charmeuse and has antique filigree buttons collected in Southern Germany concealing hook and eye closures that fasten the coat - shown here also before buttons were added - coat sz 12 - $750. Dress sz 14 - $375.
A cotton wax-print frock coat can be layered over pants or dresses - to stylish effect - Letters and numbers Ankara print is a traditional African pattern - lined in rayon bemberg - sz 6-8 - $650.
Nothing says VIP better than a dress that actually says vip . . Cotton wax print button front dress with semi-belt tie. sz 6-8 - $550.
We got out of the city for the first time since the Pandemic- Had a lovely weekend visit with old friends at the beach.
Back in the studio. . . .
A full cotton print skirt with a belt and dark top has been my wardrobe choice for bicycling along the Hudson River to and from my studio feeling free as a bird!
Continue to stay safe everyone and dress for pleasure! ❤️
detail of Peony - painted by Eve Vaterlaus
I recently asked longtime friend and collaborator Eve Vaterlaus to paint whatever she liked for me on two pieces of silk.. I chose a heavy weight silk charmeuse with a luxurious hand.
Eve Vaterlaus with the fabric pieces she painted
I knew I wanted to drape the dresses directly on the dress form and on the bias without making a pattern.
It is scary, but exhilarating to make the first cut - I ended up using almost every bit of the fabric.
The dresses modeled by my two favorite models - my nieces. . .
Pink Peonies on pale green satin modeled by Ellison Mellor
Yellow silk Poppies
modeled by Lucy Debernardi
Captured at High Noon Gallery - at show of paintings by Bobbie Oliver - My Starfish dress and matching mask -
Our Mayoral primary is this Tuesday. . .
photo : Lindsay Walt
Show is up through June 27 at High Noon Gallery at 124 Forsyth St. nyc
It was a busy and productive couple of months. I always love this time of year and especially this year, with covid numbers declining and some activity returning. I was encouraged that people bought lots of dresses at my Spring Sale, which indicates that they see a future in dressing up and going out again.
Sophie in Peacock blue silk draped gown photo: Liz Hafter
I made this dress in 2005 originally as a costume for Trisha Brown to wear in a duet in Lyon, France. We decided on something simpler and I then sold it to a dear client. Some years later this client recommended me to Sophie and her Mom, one of her best friends, to design a Bat mitzvah dress. Now- Sophie is graduating from high school and the friend leant her the gown to wear to her prom. She chose to wear Doc Martins as footwear, (not pictured) which I love!
I went to the first art shows I had seen in 15 months- Lee Krasner collages at Paul Kasmin Gallery and Terry Winters Paintings and drawings at Matthew Marks Gallery
Contact me for more info on how to purchase or to make an appointment to visit my NYC Chelsea Atelier
visit my atelier for more !
I have begun to see the seagulls again flying around above the new Moynihan train station on my bike rides to my studio. The other day I was stopped at a light while I and a road crew worker stared up at them, amazed by the beauty of these so-called scavengers.
I have felt like a scavenger too, plumbing my store of fabrics and collecting new ones from far afield (Jaipur India) and close at home in the garment district. I’ve used this time to explore some new paths and let them lead me where they will.
I love these bike rides- I’ve ridden in all weather and even through sleet, though that was not pleasurable, and I’ve fallen on snow patches until I learned that you cannot ride over snow, but some ice is OK. I love seeing the landmarks I pass each day and the shopkeepers opening up their stores and working on the ubiquitous restaurant huts that provide pandemic dining. (Although I have never sat in one) It is sad to see closed and empty storefronts, but there seems to be a real resiliency, at least on the route I take down 9th Ave and up 8th Ave . Lincoln Center is still closed, but plans some outdoor concerts soon, and and the theater district is struggling for sure although eerily, the signs still flash in Times Square.
In my studio, my sanctuary, work goes on -Clients come safely for fittings, (though many of my projects have been understandably delayed to post-pandemic times) and I continue to create.
It’s been a difficult and long winter, but hopefully Spring will bring some hope and solace to the many who are struggling.
Neptune at Columbus Circle
Wax prints from my archives
Patchwork tent dress made from Batik and wax print pieces - sprained wrist from fall in the snow from bicycle
I used a vintage cotton nightgown from the early 1900’s as the pattern for this tent dress. I then used the same pattern to make variations on it.
This dress came from a drawing I had done for a client in 2019 - although for different fabric- I had some of the green stripe linen and was able to find more to complete the dress- amazed that they still had it!
I wanted some light cotton joyful prints looking forward to the time when we will feel light and joyful. These fabrics came from Jaipur, though the colors were not always what I expected. The first was a yellow print. I was strongly attracted to the pattern, but did not realize why until after it arrived and I saw the resemblance to my Grandmother’s Chinoiserie bowls that I had loved so much as a child and still treasure.
And from one of my newer wax print fabrics ordered from Eliebea in Texas
Long Dress made from a single print of Vlisco wax-print fabric which contains stripes of different patterns.
Placing the green stripe panel down the middle of the dress is what made it come together for me- The sides and back are an unbroken length with another piece of green inserted at the bottom of the center back to form a small train. In the picture on right you can see all the different stripes in this pattern.
Please still stay safe, wear masks and social distance- I can’t wait to see you all in a pandemic-controlled future. And do contact me if you’d like to visit in a safe and controlled way with masks and air-circulation at my studio. I am also happy to work long-distance. ❤️ Stay tuned for Spring Sale coming up!
& dresses!
Virtual travel during time of Covid - collages using images from Chateaus in France including the Chateau Villette a luxury wedding destination -
Bunny Coat! Fabric painted by Ray Smith - wool Melton - lined in silk satin
I’ve enjoyed meeting with clients one-on-one during my sale this month. It’s great to be able to really focus on one person, even though I miss the social interaction of the evening sales. . .There is still time to visit- please contact me through the contact page to make an appointment. Masks worn, of course!
This is the first dress I made (this time around) which began my fascination, or re-infatuation, with African wax-print fabrics. I first encountered these fabrics in Paris sometime in the 1980’s in one of the fabric shops at the base of Sacrè -Cœur. I hadn’t really thought about them for a while, when a few years ago I was given a salesmans’ swatch book from AK Fabrics, one of my favorite fabric stores. This was comprised of square pieces of various sizes. One day I decided to open it up and I just began to pin each one onto a dress form in the order that they came in. It was entirely serendipitous, and became the dress you see here. Each side is so different, I wanted to show them all and the pieced-together patchwork, born of necessity. Underneath it all I added a structure of a cotton dress with boned bodice and horsehair hem skirt. Though this dress has been sold, you can view other dresses for sale here.
This year is obviously different, so I will be seeing people individually, by appointment or in small family units of 2. . . I’ve been working hard and have lots of new items as well as older ones very enticingly priced! Come have a look, or a peek online. Please reach out to me with any questions-
Stay safe, healthy, and hope to see you!.
We are living in a time that feels both alien and familiar. It is a time where we have the opportunity to make change and reconsider the way we live with our planet and each other. We will have and have had much pain and loss, but we can grow and we can learn. Searching for beauty and working on problems is what keeps me going - I would love to share a bit of my process these past few months. . .
This is the way my studio looked in early March I took the black silk blouse home to work on as I felt I was becoming ill and may not be back in a while. . .
Luckily I had just ordered a new foot pedal for my only sewing machine at my home.
silk tulip scarf Hand-painted by Eve Vaterlaus, Red cotton gauze dress, black chiffon blouse, cotton quilted Kantha coat
1st dress I made at home with no dress form, no cutting table or pattern- I used 2 interlocking squares and added straps and a cross piece in the back
My old singer sewing machine- the first thing I ever bought with money I earned from babysitting..
Dress can be pulled up with 2 loops and buttons to make a shorter length
2nd Dress made from geometric shapes- 2 interlocking squares - it also buttons to shorter length and has generous pockets
I ordered some fabric from a business I found online- Elliebea - actually, they advertised to me on instagram, and I was very happy after an initial disappointing order from the wholesaler I usually use in New York , because new fabric shipments had stopped due to coronavirus and their selection was very limited.
Vlisco wax prints- the Twi Proverb says “Dua Kur gye enum a obu” “A tree alone cannot stand the wind” meaning there is strength in unity.
Meanwhile- a darling client gave me an order for 2 “house dresses” that she could wear and feel wonderful in - in confinement. . .
I was able to work with her long distance and some back and forth with drawing and swatching from wonderful BandJ fabrics.
Of course the whole time I have been making masks and filling orders. . . .
Next came bicycling down 60 blocks to my studio and carrying lots of supplies back and forth between home and studio. I quickly found that using our dining table for cutting fabric was causing great pain to my back. .
dress I made at home and later revised paired with coat from studio
I began a routine of bringing fabric downtown that I had washed at home and cutting the patterns at my studio and then sewing at home-
Here I am in my “Citibike” dress that I made for cycling ( minor bike scape on shin.) . .waiting for my blue Bell bike helmet
Print from Elliebea fabrics - this is my very popular Poppy dress named after Clare McCardell’s Popover dress, because it is so easy for many people to wear. . .
Client work has haltingly resumed- I am working on several new projects and looking ahead with intensified focus as we do not know what the future will bring.
This post is dedicated to my dear brother, John Thomas Cannon Jr. March 4, 1957 - April 10, 2020
I ventured out last weekend to make a citibike trip to my studio where I haven’t been since early March. I was greeted by a lovely sunny view of everything in place just as I left it. I collected some fabric and things I could use to work from home. I am making a limited edition of masks and samples. To this end I have set up a page called “Shop” where you can view items that I have for purchase. In the spirit of couture, you may contact me directly to inquire about any items that you are interested in. I can send additional information/ photos on most items and answer questions as to fit and construction. I take many forms of payment including PayPal, Venmo, Zelle and regular credit cards. I hope you are all well and manginging to stay safe in our altered reality.♥️
Stay Safe !
Like many of you whose professions do not require you to be on the front lines helping to fight the corona virus, or feeding and caring for the population- I am working as best as possible from home. I’ve been doing some drawings which I hope you find diverting. I will be back to work on my client’s projects as soon as it is safe. in the meantime I am creating a page on this site for items I have currently available- Inquiries are always welcome!
Thank you for taking the time to visit and stay safe!
with love, Elizabeth
